Month: February 2020 Page 3 of 4

Today we left La Fortuna and made our way to Monteverde and the cloud forest. The volcano was still veiled in cloud so sadly no full sightings of the summit. We drove for half an hour to Arenal Lake where we changed from bus to boat. The lake is 135km long and 5km wide. It is much quicker to take the hour boat trip across the lake rather than driving around it; partucularly so as the roads are hilly and windy.

As we crossed the lake the cloud thinned, the air warmed and the sun appeared. We chugged across the lake on a very crowded boat and finally reached the far shore. However, as we approached we could see no sign of a landing area. Then the boat turned to the right and we could see a channel which had been masked from view by the reed beds. The landing point was even more chaotic than the embarkation. Vehicles were parked everywhere on the narrow dirt track down to the lakeside. Three boats had come in at once and some 100 people were trying to manoeuvre their way, with luggage, between the closely parked vehicles and each other. Complete mayhem! We eventually found our bus, passed the cases through the back window for stowage and were once more on our way.

The road was now a stony and bumpy track, yet mopeds and indeed other vehicles managed to overtake us. Fortunately our driver was good and drove very steadily. The road became very steep in places as the terrain was very hilly indeed. I took photos from the bus but apologise for picture quality due to darkened windows, speed and bumpy terrain!

We made a brief stop for refreshments and finally arrived in Monteverde at 12.30. The hotel is not per the itinerary but actually is the best accommodation so far. Large rooms with a good-sized bathroom and I would say recently refurbished. The centre of town is a 10 minute walk down quite a steep hill but fortunately there are several restaurants and a supermarket across the road. We grab a quick lunch before departing at 14.15 for zip-lining. Twelve out of the sixteen of us opted for the trip and we were all apprehensive but need not have been. The zip-lining operators – 100% Aventuras were extremely professional. All equipment was expertly fitted on us and we were given a very clear briefing. Then it was time to give it a go.

There are 10 zip-lines in total. The first is easy – 35m just to check you can get it right and brake when required. The longest is just under 1.6 km and is strung high across a valley. This one you do superman style – lying facedown. It is probably one of the best things I have ever done. The views and sense of freedom were incredible.

It was also possible to try the Tarzan swing. It’s a bit like bungee jumping but this involves having a harness around your waist instead of your feet. You then step off a 40m platform and after a long fall swing through the air like Tarzan. I decided this was not for me but four of our party were brave enough to give it a go. Well done indeed Rob, Duncan, Pat and Sharon!

After all the exercise we were pretty hungry and thirsty so we gathered for drinks on the terrace outside our rooms, then headed off for dinner.

This morning we visited the La Fortuna Waterfall. The waterfall drops about 70−75 meters and is at the base of the dormant Chato volcano, about 5.5 km outside of the town of La Fortuna, near the Arenal Volcano.

8 of us were on the trip and 6 were brave enough to swim in the rather cold water. Those who know me well will know I opted for staying dry! There are many visitors to the falls but they were worth seeing. However there are some 500 steps down to them and then of course 500 steps back up. There is no other way of accessing them. I needed a large beer on finally reaching the top.

There is a butterfly trail at the start of the walk down to the falls and I spotted this beauty. A type of moth but no-one can tell me what it is.

We had a lazy afternoon by the pool which I think we all needed. The gardens are small but beautifully maintained.

In the evening we we visited a local home and learned how to make tortillas. They were then followed by a very tasty and filling local meal, which was cooked by the most charming and hospitable hostess. Our hosts have just built a very large house, which they have only been in 3 weeks, so that they can more easily entertain tourists. They have a river and some rain forest so are planning some nature activities too. This was a very enjoyable and educational experience.

We are staying at the Hotel Monte Real in La Fortuna. It is a very simple place but good sized rooms and spotlessly clean. It has a lovely little swimming pool set in its tiny, but immaculately kept, gardens. The hotel has no restaurant or bar so breakfast was taken in the little restaurant next door and was good. Several choices – fruit, eggs, sausage and toast! The first toast I have seen here and very good it was too accompanied by a fresh pineapple conserve.

At 08.00 we boarded the bus for a visit to the hanging bridges at Arenal for a walk through the rain forest. There are 16 bridges in total and 5 or 6 of them are hanging, set high in the forest canopy.

We had no afternoon activities so could take our time on the walk through the forest. Most of the trip concentrated on the flora as the forest birds were hard to spot. We did however see some really tiny bats 1-2” long roosting under a tree root and also some long-nosed bats. We were shown a palm tree which can actually move itself up to 20cm to gain more light. It puts out roots on the side it wants to travel towards and kills off the roots on the opposite side. It is nick-named the penis palm as the new roots do look somewhat like penises. There was inevitably some joking and smutty comments !!

Fortunately today the rain had stopped and the temperature was very comfortable. The views from the bridges were fantastic but the bridges are surprisingly mobile and move a lot. If you suffer from vertigo this would not be for you! It also made taking photos tricky as the bridge really bounces around and you need to hold on.

As we were nearing the end of our walk wildlife sprang out from everywhere. We saw 2 crested owls and a scarlet rumped tanager (stunningly beautiful jet black and vivid scarlet) both too difficult to photo. Then a crested guan landed in the tree above us.

No more than a few feet away we noticed 4 coati high in a tree. These are racoon like creatures and really cute.

However, I was most excited by spotting a column of leaf cutter ants. I had really hoped to see them. They have such an amazing community structure. The leaves are cut into manageable pieces and carried back to the nest where they are composted. The ants grow a specific type of fungus on the decaying leaves which the ants feed to the larvae.

We crossed the last bridge and were treated to a partial view of Arenal Volcano which had been totally shrouded in cloud earlier.

Our driver had bought fruit for us to eat and had cut it up beautifully.

As we were driving back we encountered a whole family of coati by the roadside. I could have watched them for hours.

Then back to the hotel for lunch in town before setting off at 16.30 to bathe in the hot springs. Apparently the river water became hot after the last eruption of the Arenal Volcano in 2010 so must now be flowing over hot lava somewhere. This turned out to be the most brilliant and fun excursion.

We all bought our preferred drinks (no glass bottles allowed) and filled a cold box to take with us. We left the bus with towels and torches and made the short walk to the river which we had to cross. The crossing point was flat but the water flowed very strongly and crossing without falling focussed the mind. Then our guide took a belongings and we climbed down into the water which was just a perfect temperature.

Bliss. Nature’s jacuzzi. The water flow was really strong and you really needed to wedge yourself into a rock to avoid getting your beer wet! Our guide, Deinor, had brought volcanic clay and treated us all too a facial.

There was a waterfall flowing into the pool and it was possible to claw your way through the strong current to sit behind it. This was a fantastic experience. You were out of the current and could see the whole way along the wall of water cascading into the pool.

We stayed in the pool for two hours and as it grew dark our guide lit candles around the edges and we continued drinking and chatting. Fireflies started to twinkle in the trees. Magical.

After two hours or so we reluctantly clambered out of the pool and headed back for showers and a meal at a local micro brewery called La Fortuna. The entertainment was a man singing karaoke and playing bongos or drum in the instrumental sections. We think he did actually work at the restaurant but didn’t know the words to the songs. All in all another really excellent day and very different experiences.

As we were leaving dinner last night one of night watchmen spotted a potoo high up in a tree. The locals call them stick birds for they look exactly like the end of a dead branch. They are related to nightjars and have an eerie call.

I was woken at 04.30 by torrential rain hammering on the roof. That was a good opportunity for me to write up my blog as sleep was impossible. There were intermittent power cuts and literally the only light was the glow from my iPhone. Pitch black without it.

We are leaving today for the 200km road trip to La Fortuna. First we must make the 1-2 hour boat trip to reach the road. I take some photos of the hotel before leaving. The rooms at the lodge were VERY simple but clean and the shower was fantastic. There was a lovely pool area and the lodge grounds extend down to the beach and the Caribbean Sea. We were advised not to swim in the sea as there are strong currents.

The sea was less than inviting – wild and raw!

The cases were loaded onto our boat and we setoff through the narrow channel that led to the main waterway.

We made no stops for wildlife but did spot two king vultures which apparently are a rare sighting here. As soon as we left the boat and hauled our cases up the muddy bank it started to rain. It was that heavy tropical stuff and it continued all day so it turns out that this was a good day to be making the long transfer. Buses are dry! It was a 4 hour drive up to Sarapiqui where we visited the Mi Cafecito Coffee Cooperative. We had lunch here and then a tour. Lunch was both welcome and good with freshly caught tilapia fish and the obligatory plantains, beans and rice.

It turns out that producing coffee is complicated. It takes 4-5 years for a plant to be productive and the beans are hand picked. The bean has 4 skin layers which need to be removed, it has to be dried and then roasted. Next time I have a coffee I will be much more appreciative of the hard work involved. 12kg of freshly picked beans produces just 1kg of coffee.

After the tour, some of which was outside in the pouring rain, we were rewarded with coffee liqueur shots. The liqueur is made from the juicy second layer of the bean. This layer tastes similar to a lychee.

We rejoined the bus and 90 minutes later we reached La Fortuna which will be our base for the next three nights. The town is close to Arenal Volcano and offers lots of adrenalin rush activities as well as some less life-endangering ones (which I have opted for).

It was now 18.30 – a long day indeed – so we dumped our cases in our rooms and strolled into town for a pizza and beer. I have to say it was one of the best pizzas I have ever had…or maybe it was the lack of rice and beans on the plate that made it taste so delicious!!

Today has been busy. Partly due to excursions and partly due to sitting by the pool and drinking wine and chatting with new found friends. So a brief summary of the day’s activities. We made an early start at 06.00 and saw a 2-toed sloth in the trees at the lodge before we had even ventured out. The weather looked ominous and indeed light rain fell throughout most of our morning excursion. We did make some good sightings – howler monkeys, capuchin monkeys, raccoon, agouti, various species of herons including the agami heron which is rare, reclusive and very beautiful.

We visited the Sea Turtle Conservancy centre which was interesting. We learned about the turtles life cycle as well as the research carried out at the centre. Turtles visit Tortuguero to lay their eggs between March and September depending on species. Four species can be seen – green, hawksbill, leatherback and loggerhead. It rained during the river trip there and during the lecture – so a good activity during the wet weather. I was very glad to have brought a poncho, which provided total protection for me and my camera equipment – not a great look but very practical.

Once we left the Sea Turtle Conservancy we had a boat trip through the waterways of the Totuguero National Park. The rain eased and we saw some wonderful birds.

Some of the other wildlife we saw today below….

On our way back we saw something truly amazing. Five long-nosed bats were roosting on a dead branch in the middle of the channel. Tiny and absolute masters of disguise. SOooooo cool!!