Month: September 2022 Page 2 of 3

We set out early again before the sun was up. There is no doubt that the early bird catches the worm. There is yet again a beautiful sunrise.

This morning we are heading east to the plains in the hope of finding lions and seeing crocodiles and hippos in the river. We are not disappointed and shortly encounter a pride of 8 lions – three lionesses and 5 one year old cubs. No-one else is here. They have made a kill and have polished off most of it – just leaving some scraps for the cubs to play tug of war with.

We sit and watch for an hour or so. They are very entertaining.

Finally the lions head off into the long grass and lie down and are unlikely to move further today so we leave them to their sleep.

As we traverse the high plains we see a lone male lion walking towards us. He is very battle scarred, appears to have some mouth injuries and looks very weary. Qamara does a great job of continually positioning our vehicle ahead of him to enable the best photo opportunities.

He eventually finds a solitary tree and settles down in the shade and starts grooming himself.

We head off down to the river and find some vultures squabbling over a carcass. Their behaviour is interesting to watch, though slightly gruesome. They hiss and peck at each other to gain prime position.

We then head down to the Mara River where we shall stop for breakfast. The view of the river is truly beautiful. The sky is cloudless and the air is warming up. The scent of wild sage fills the air, doves call and the river continually rushes and gurgles over the rocks.

We stop by a sandy bank where we have an excellent view of the river and hippos wallowing in the shallows.

Jane could not be happier. This is her dream – to eat breakfast while watching hippos which are her favourite animal.

We soak up the scene while eating quiche, sausage, bacon, eggs anfd fruit. Eventually we need to pack up and head off. We have only drive a few yards when we see the biggest, fattest crocodile lazing on the rocks. Clearly he has been gorging on wildebeest.

We lazily drive back to camp enjoying the general game viewing on offer interspersed with occasional distant lion sightings.

This afternoon we set off in pursuit of black rhino. We scan the grass and ditches below the camp where a rhino and calf have recently been seen. On this occasion we were not lucky but meet a vehicle coming in the opposite direction. It stops. The American in the back holds up 6 fingers and says they’ve just seen seven lions. We’re really not sure what that means as his ability to count is clearly questionable! We drive on and find the lions. A lioness and 6 cubs. That makes seven by my reckoning. They are amazing to watch. Clearly the cubs are not used to vehicles and one in particular is worryingly interested in us. Fortunately, although he curiously approaches the vehicle, he does eventually stop 10 feet away. I have so many great shots from this sighting. Way to many to share on here but here is a small selection.

The sun is starting to go down so we head back to camp. Qamara asks if we still want to see the rhino. We say of course. We pull round the rocks and there our butler Omary has laid out sundowners for us. We now nickname him rhino! Annoyingly it starts to rain so we have our drinks in the vehicle and have a good chat with lots of banter with Qamara and Omary. What a super last day here.

We leave camp very early so that we stand a chance of seeing yesterday’s large herds crossing back over the Mara. Qamara is certain this will happen this morning as the herds were very large last night. It is dark as we drive off and we see the most beautiful sunrise.

We drove fast and reached Crossing No 4 where Qamara thought the action would take place. We came across a kill very close to the crossing point. There were lots of hyenas, vultures and jackals. The light was perfect and we started taking lots of shots whilst waiting for the action to commence. We did not need to wait long – literally 5 minutes. Qamara said hold on tight and we raced down to the river. The crossing was huge and we were surrounded by wildebeest running past us and hurling themselves into the water. The noise, dust, vibration. Just impossible to explain. A truly awesome and humbling experience. We were so close that my long lens was not fit for purpose. I ended up videoing with my phone and just taking it in with my eyes.

One mother zebra makes it across but her baby is left behind. She swims back across the river calling all the time.

The crossing went on for a good half an hour and we sat spellbound. Eventually it went quiet and we returned to the kill and hyenas.

We stayed with the hyenas for a while and then parked away from the river to await the next crossing. It is fair to say that I am not feeling great this morning. Partly due to the cough which seems to have returned, along with a headache and hangover – thanks to last night’s festivities. I have a doze and Jane helpfully photographs me. Thanks Jane.

I am awakened by Qamara starting the engine. There is another crossing taking place at California – close to where we are. This was a smaller crossing but North to South so coming towards us . The light was perfect and the photos are really good. The wildebeest are coming up the bank inches from us.

When the California Crossing finished we headed uphill for breakfast and parked up with a clear view of the river in case another crossing happened. Breakfast was delicious. Egg and sweet tomato wraps with sausage and bacon, fruit and chocolate donuts. I had an issue with the donut, which I was thoroughly enjoying, but we were being plagued by flies. Not surprising as there were a lot of wildebeest and they produce a lot of poo. I went to flick a fly away, caught my hat and flung my donut into the surrounding bushes. Never mind. I was getting fairly full in any case – but it was quite funny.

We pack away our breakfast and then sit and wait, hoping for another crossing. We are so lucky. Another crossing does indeed present itself at No 4 again. It is huge and the light is better. I have also had the good sense to swap lenses on my camera, as I realise just how close we will be to the action and the big zoom is too much. I have recorded some stunning video but for now you shall have to make do with the photo. This final crossing lasts ages. The herd keeps changing the crossing point. At any one time there are 3 or 4 crossings occurring. The noise, dust, smell is indescribable. This absolutely is one of the most wondrous things you can ever experience. Crocodiles are swimming fast towards the wildebeest. Will there be a successful assault?

There is so much to look at and it is certainly wise to stop looking through the camera and just absorb it in your mind’s eye. This morning will live with me forever. We are two very happy ladies.

We slowly make our way back to camp and I am delighted to spot a serval in the long grass. We follow it to a bush where it hides in the shade.

Today I actually have time for a shower and hairwash. Hoorah! I am eager to write up yesterday’s blog. Falling behind is not good, but I have had a lot of trouble loading photos. I made a bit of a breakthrough last night when it occurred to me to reduce the file size. No further issues and it is much quicker to now process everything.

Clouds build and as we leave our room for the afternoon drive the heavens open. We catch a brief glimpse of a lion in the rocks close to camp. I am also pretty sure that I saw a cheetah in the long grass but we are unable to find it. We slowly drive down the track and finally arrive at the spot where we last saw the leopard. We see a lioness in the distance and then sleeping on the rocks – a beautiful male leopard. Apparently this is the one year old son of the mother we saw two nights ago.

He starts hunting in the rocks and looks just like a domestic cat playing with a ball of string. To our surprise he suddenly pulls out a leopard tortoise, which he cannot work out how to break in to.

Tea was brought to the room at 06.00 and we left at 06.30 sharp for the 45 minute drive to a potential crossing point. We watch hot air balloons drifting across the plains as we make our way to the river.

The wildebeest are starting to accumulate on our side of the river and Qamara thinks they will cross back either this afternoon or early tomorrow morning. In the meantime smaller herds are gathered on the far side of the river. We take up position a little way from the river and hope that a crossing will happen soon.

The wildebeest are teasing us. They go down the bank then change their minds and gallop to a different spot. It is very much a guessing and waiting game. After a couple of hours we think nothing will happen soon so set up breakfast.

We are half way through omelette, bacon and eggs when the wildebeest start to cross. Qamara says leave everything. I get into the vehicle still holding my coffee mug. Bad idea. Qamara tells me to just throw it out cup and all. We wedge ourselves in and drive at breakneck speed down to the river. It is so much fun and exhilerating. We arrive half way through the crossing and are not in the best position for photos but it is impressive nevertheless.

It is not long before the crossing is over and we head down to the plains by the river. It is a hive of activity. A multi-layered smorgasbord of animals. The back drop is wildebeest but giraffe, elephant, zebra and impala majestically weave their way through them.

We also have a wonderful elephant encounter with two adults and three youngsters. They are relaxed and come within feet of our vehicle. I have some wonderful video.

After an hour or so we reluctantly make our way back to camp but stop for a spot of hippo watching en route.

On our drive back we also see some cute baby giraffes and three klipspringers.

After lunch we head back to the wildebeest herds and encounter a stuck vehicle. We stop to lend a hand.

We patiently wait and watch the herds but there are no further crossings today. We chat and enjoy the scenery and will return early tomorrow morning. We have a really fun evening with two other couples – Rob and Laura and Paola and Nacho. Both couples are on their honeymoons and married the same day as each other. They treat us to champagne and we stay up late. Not sure about the photo below – a very wide-angle and it makes us all look very fat!

We are woken with a cup of tea in the room at 06.00. It is a beautiful morning and the sun is just below the horizon.

However I woke earlier at 04.00. I heard wildebeest calls of anguish followed by lions roaring. I am sure they have made a kill and it is very close to my tent. Hyenas start to whoop close by too. When the tea arrives I am told three lions have made a kill just behind my tent.

We meet Qamara at 06.30 at our vehicle and set-off to the river in the hope of seeing a crossing. The rains have come early this year and there were a lot of mass crossings last week. I am not overly optimistic about our chances. We have only travelled a very short distance when we see vehicles and spot 3 lions by the side of the track. We stop and take some very acceptable photos but the morning is about to give so much more.

We hear on the radio that there is a mating pair of lions close by. We drive a short distance and see a handsome young male and very healthy looking lioness. It is not long before they get down to business.

Reluctantly we leave the mating lions and head further west in hope of seeing a river crossing. It’s a long drive. We pass the airstrip and continue over the rough terrain on a zigzag course, running parallel with the Mara river. We drive to the furthest crossing point – No.0 and wait. Wildebeest do the usual teasing thing of going down a bank and changing their mind. In the end three wildebeest choose the steepest bank they can find and descend. More follow and they find it impossible to climb back up. The result…..a crossing!! Not huge but nonetheless impressive and the light is perfect so a good number of very acceptable action shots. All this and it is not yet 10 o’clock.

We park by a tree for a toilet break and breakfast. Unfortunately the tree is infested by fire ants. I avoid being bitten but Jane acquires a few unwelcome visitors up her trouser leg and a few bites too!

Bush breakfast is always wonderful. Omelette, sausage, bacon, fruit and muffins accompanied by tea for Jane and coffee for me and the most amazing view.

After breakfast we patiently stake out further transit points in the hope of viewing another crossing but there are no more this morning. However, we watch masses of plains game, chat and just soak up the amazing location that we are privileged enough to be visiting. This is such a special place. Finally we head back to camp for a late lunch – burgers and papaya sorbet. Very welcome after 7 hours out in the vehicle.

After lunch I write up yesterday’s s blog and select the best of this morning’s photos. No small feat – I have taken just under 3000 photos ao far!!

At 16.30 we set off again and joke with Qamara that he will struggle to better this morning’s drive. Oh ye of little faith!! First we find the mating lions, plus anther male and 3 females. We watch for an hour or more as the sky darkens and the temperature drops. It may rain again. Finally we head off and receive a call that a leopard has been seen. We see other vehicles and there is the most beautiful leopard sitting on top of a low ridge of rocks. We are distant and the light is waining but I have some great shots. We start to drive 0ff. At the same time the leopard is spooked. She runs in our direction and we second guess where she will go. We always manage to stay just ahead. This is probably the most interactive leopard experience I have ever had.

We drive around a rocky outcrop and see a male and female lion occupying it. At the same time the leopard appears and stands at the far end oblivious to the potential danger,. The male lion raises his head, sniffs the air and looks at the leopard. This is not good. What will happen? I dread to think….

Surprisingly nothing at all. The leopard scent marks and then heads directly for our vehicle. I have the wrong lens – it is too long and she is too close. She is heading straight at me then, directly beneath me and under the vehicle and out the other side. Wow! I mean wow! None of us can believe what we have just experienced.

Rain now looks very imminent. The light is fading fast but there is just enough time to take some great sunset cloud shots.

We dump our gear in the tent and head straight for the campfire and pre-dinner drinks. Again the company is good and dinner table chat flows.

For once we did not need to get up early and could have breakfast at Rivertrees.

This beats the usual packed breakfast consisting of a cardboard box with dubious food items in it. We set off at 08.30 for 10.45 flight from Arusha. Annoyingly the flight is making lots of stops. Lake Manyara, Lobo, Serenara and finally Kogatende, where we disembark. The flight takes the best part of 3 hours and we do not arrive in camp until 15.o0.

We sit under the shade of a tree and are served lunch with a beautiful view of the bush.

Large clouds form in the sky and it is looking certain that there will be rain before the day is out. We have a brief orientation meeting with the manager and are then shown to our tent. The camp have excelled themselves. They have given us a family tent so effectively we have two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Neat!

There is little time to enjoy the room as it is already 16.30 and time for our afternoon game drive.

The first thing we encounter is a carcass with a lot of vulture activity.

We then notice some vehicles parked up not far away and see a lone cheetah lying in the grass. We suspect he made the kill that the vultures are now devouring. We sit and watch for an hour or more. It starts to rain heavily and the light is poor but I still manage some half decent shots.

The rain eventually eases and the sun appears below the clouds. We practice different sunset techniques. Our guide Qamara is a keen photographer. We are going to get on exceptionally well.

We make it back to camp at 18.45 – a quick change, then G&T’s round the campfire and dinner. We have an interesting evening chatting to a Coastal Aviation pilot , who it turns out, knows my friend Julien Polet from Mahale very well. Small world. We continue with a bottle of red wine around the campfire before bed.