Month: April 2023 Page 1 of 3

We make a dry landing at Sullivan Bay, Santiago Island and are going to walk on the lava flow there. The eruption took place 200 years ago and is of a similar structure to the Hawaiian eruptions called pahoehoe. The lava flows slowly and forms smooth humps. The lava has set in all sorts of weird and wonderful shapes.

The new lava field is black, in stark contrast to the ancient lava – maybe 2 million years old –  which it has flowed over, which is red and has weathered into rocks, shale and sand.

It is a totally alien landscape and we feel as though we are walking on another planet. Scrubby plants cling to life on the old lava flow and there are very occasional small plants just beginning to grow on the new lava field.

A crab seems out of place in this hostile terrain.

A fly catcher follows us as we walk. It is hoping to catch any insect that may land on us and as a result comes very close to us indeed.

The sky is cloudless and the sun beats down. It is searingly hot – probably well over 40C. We drink loads of water. I have taken two bottles and I need them. We are very relieved when 2 hours later we finally arrive at the beach.

I cannot take my shorts off fast enough and run into the sea. It is absolute bliss to swim in the cooling water. We have brought snorkel gear. The marine life is good. I see a sea lion, two turtles and lots of reef fish. Some people spot a couple of penguins but I was too busy looking at a large ray.

In the afternoon we snorkel at Bartolome.

This time we all see the penguins. There are only three but we feel lucky to have found them and no-one is in a hurry to get back in the boats.

The current was quite strong in places so we have had a good deal of exercise today. However there is more to come. We shall finish the day with a walk up to the top of Bartolome some 114 metres high involving 370 steps.

This in 40C heat with no shade and high humidity is a big ask but we all make it.

The older ones amongst us take more rests than the youngsters. I am so hot when I reach the top that I pour the remaining contents of my water bottle over my head and down the front and back of my shirt. Bliss!!

Back on board I down an ice cold beer, shower then return for a margarita and farewell briefing.

Our guide Fabian, loves snorkelling and has made a short video of our snorkelling trips. It is really good. He has a GoPro and his footage is much better than mine. That will be my next Xmas present sorted!

I slept really well last night and I do not wake until the alarm goes off at 06.15. It is a beautiful day. Clear blue sky and green hills rising out of an azure sea, which is flat calm. The sun has already made the stainless steel handrails too hot to touch. We make a wet landing on the golden tan sand of Cormorant Point on Floreana.

I take lots of views on my phone. It is truly gorgeous here. The sand sparkles because it contains grains of peridot and shells and corals that have washed up on the beach have been collected into a little treasure trove.

Blue-footed boobies nest behind the beach and we also spot a well-camouflaged striated heron.

We set off on the trail …..

….and come to a large brackish lake….

….and are delighted to see a large number of flamingoes. They are very richly coloured and clearly finding lots of shrimp to eat.

We reluctantly say our farewells to them and continue across the island, drinking copious amounts of water on route. My word it is hot. It is an easy trail but with some inclines and there are great views from the centre of the island.

The vegetation seems lusher here and there are plants that we have not seen elsewhere.

We continue to a spectacular stretch of sand on the leeward shore. The water is crystal clear. I take off my sandals and paddle. The cool of the water is so welcome and I luxuriate in it and feel it gradually lowering my body temperature.

Stingrays patrol the beach and swim past our feet. There are loads of turtles in the sea. This beach is a nesting site. We do not see any turtle hatchlings but I do see some indents where there are nests.

Just half an hour break and then we go snorkelling off Champion Islet. This is a deep water snorkel and the sea life is astonishing. Shoals and shoals of different fish. A boobie torpedoing into the water yards away from me and then…..sea lions. Everywhere. They are playful and I spend pretty much the whole time snorkelling with them. Completely magical.

I am sitting in my cabin writing postcards to post home from Post Office Bay later this afternoon. This is how sailors communicated before post. They left messages in a barrel and crews from any passing boat would pick up the messages to deliver by hand when they reached the mainland. The tradition continues today with tourists writing cards and hoping another tourist lives near the address and will hand deliver it. I have sent three cards. Let’s see how long they take to arrive……

I’ve literally just finished writing when there is a knock on my cabin door. A large pod of dolphins have been sighted. They are a long way off but we can see them jumping and playing.

After lunch we have a boat ride to Baronesa’s Bay. We watch sea lions playing in the water, there are a few blue-footed boobies and we spot two huge blue herons. We drive into the mangroves in the hope of seeing young sharks but actually find three beautiful eagle rays. We cruise round the bay in the panga and then go ashore. We post our cards in the postbox. We also go through all the cards in the box to see if we can hand deliver any.

I spend the rest of the afternoon on the beach – chatting in the water and snorkelling. I see two large turtles, a baby shark swimming along the beach and several puffer fish.

Our latest after dinner activity has been to stand on deck and look for sharks. Tonight there is a spectacular display. The sea bubbles with small fish and periodically flying fish leap across the water. They are fast, but not as fast as the pursuing sea lions. Large Galapagos sharks are also present. They swim more slowly and look like they are hoping to pick up the fallout from the sea lions hunting.

On one occasion a large group of sea lions surround the flying fish which leap across the water in all directions looking very much like a firework display.

Tonight there was a beautiful sunset. The clouds seem to mimic the adjacent hillsides. This was followed by the moon rising and glistening across the calm ocean.

It is 07.00 and already 36C! It will be a scorcher today. We are anchored in Gardner Bay, Espanola where we can enjoy the beach, sea lions and laze in the warm, azure water.

I am entertained by one particularly hungry pup.

We return to the boat for snorkelling gear and to move a short distance to an outlying island. There is a massive fish ball below me. There are thousands of fish here and I enjoy diving down and swimming through them.

We then climb back into the pangas and move to a rocky headland. Here I see a reef shark, an iguana swimming, a giant damsel fish, starfish, a large blenny and a Guineafowl pufferfish which is golden yellow. I have never seen one before.

Fabian can free-dive and takes my camera. He captures some super macro shots of a starfish. I have never thought to use that mode underwater but certainly will in future.

After lunch the plan is to make a dry landing on Punta Suarez. It is full moon at the moment and the tide is high with an impressive swell. The planned dry landing is aborted as the steps are below water and the path is being covered by breaking waves.

Plan B is also a dry landing, but this involves racing the surf and somehow clambering off the tender in the swell, onto very uneven and jaggedy rocks. We are not successful in racing the surf. A wave similar to the one below breaks on the reef and engulfs us.

I am sitting on the side of the boat with my back to the approaching wave. I am completely soaked. Water even goes inside my timberland boots! I am really grateful that I bought a 100% waterproof bag for the camera. Jane is still not feeling very well and says something like “That is not ****ing funny”. Rare for her to swear! Sea lions line the beach and honk noisily. It is scorchingly hot with high humidity. We are aiming to walk 2.5 miles around the island on very rugged terrain and, although that is not very far, in the heat it will be demanding.

Marine iguanas laze on the rocks and have taken on a reddish colouration as this is the end of  mating season.

Espanola mockingbirds (a different variant) chirrup and chatter in the bushes and Galapagos doves are ever present.

The shoreline is rocky and huge waves crash against the cliffs.

Nazca boobies nest in large numbers along the cliffs and ammonia fills the air.

There are a few blue-footed boobies here too. There are lots of young chicks and photo opportunities abound.

What also abound are swarms of sandflies and mosquitos. Bug spray is re-applied and I am glad I am wearing my Craghoppers nosilife shirt which is incredibly effective in preventing me getting bitten. At the end of the day I have only one bite. Some people have loads. We continue on our walk.

Everyone is feeling the heat but Jane is suffering more than most. She was sick this morning with probably the same bug I had the night before. She thought that she would cope OK but lack of breakfast and de-hydration take their toll. She is feeling very ill. I take her backpack and camera and one of the crew help her back towards the beach. She misses viewing a blowhole which is spectacular and noisy – it sounds like thunder as the waves pound into it.

Fabian then shouts “Albatross”. We are so lucky. They do not usually arrive until the end of April but a lone bird soars above us and I even manage to capture photographic evidence.

As we make our way back Fabian spots a Galapagos hawk. They also can be hard to find.

We meet up with Jane on the rocky path and she is not at all well – dizzy and feeling very nauseous. The crew bring her a stretcher. She is reluctant to use it but the terrain is hostile and if she fainted on the rocks it probably would lead to serious injury.

The humidity and heat have inevitably created big black clouds which now decide to dump copious volumes of water on us. It is actually really welcome. We are so hot that being drenched is just the best thing!

The surf is now even bigger than when we landed and it is decided it will be much safer to make a launch from the beach. The sea lions are unimpressed and reluctant to give us space….and we still have to make it out through the breaking surf without capsizing. The waves are now even bigger than when we landed. I would describe our launch as terrifying, exhilerating and fun in equal measure. I think Jane was just relieved to get back on board and go to her cabin for a sleep. Hopefully she will be fine by the morning.

After dinner we stand on deck to look for sharks. We are not disappointed. I count 14 huge Galapagos sharks patrolling the area around the boat. We have just raised the anchor and set sail when a flying fish crashes into the side of the boat. There is a loud splash. I think something has fallen from the deck above but realise it was a seagull diving for the fish. No sooner had the bird touched the surface than a large shark gulped it down. It all happened so fast. There really is nothing quite like watching nature in action.

The moon is almost full. The sky is cloudless and full of stars. What a perfect end to a totally amazing day.