San Jose to Tortuguero

We left the hotel at 06.30 to start our journey to Tortuguero. Traffic was slow but after 30 minutes we were making good progress and starting our ascent into the mountains and clouds to reach the continental divide. The vegetation was lush and as we ascended the clear blue sky gave way to cool weather and murky cloud. The road was in good condition and before long we were descending towards the Caribbean and the sky brightened. The bus had extremely efficient air conditioning and I had to put my jacket on!

At 08.00 we stopped for breakfast and I was relieved to discover it was pretty warm outside. Jacket was removed and we made our way into the restaurant. Breakfast was local and good. Fruit juice, rice, beans, sausage in tomato sauce, egg and fried plantain. There was a small butterfly farm to the rear of the restaurant and we made a brief visit there before rejoining the bus.

Within minutes of setting off down the road our driver pulled in. He had spotted a sloth. We all clambered out and strained our eyes to see what he was pointing at in the trees high above us. As we watched we realised there were 5 sloths! Two mothers with babies and one lone adult. We had all put sloths on our wish list. How amazing that this was the first thing we saw and fantastic to be so close!

After a great photo session we reluctantly setoff on our way to pick up the boats which would take us on the 2 hour river trip to Tortuguero. On arrival we wheeled our suitcases over pretty rough ground down to the river and our awaiting boats. There were lots of boats and seemingly 100s of tourists doing likewise so it was essential to be responsible for your own luggage. The odds of bags going astray was only too real.

The river was beautiful, lush jungle lined the banks. The water was calm and wonderful wildlife surprises seemed to appear around every bend. Iguanas, basilisk lizards, turtles, caiman, crocodiles and many birds. The water was very shallow yet the boats moved at quite a pace and the skipper showed tremendous boat handling prowess.

2 hours later we arrived at Tortuguero where we disembarked to see the town, glimpse the Caribbean and down a very well deserved beer. The town has a wonderful ambience. It is laid back and sleepy with no cars so very tranquil indeed.

From Tortuguero another 20 minutes down scarily barrow and shallow channels brought us to Turtle Beach Lodge – our home for the next two nights. The lodge is in a stunning location, pretty rustic but clean and comfortable.

We had a quick lunch, a very brief swim in the pool then set off for a walk through the forest. We were treated to good sightings of spider monkeys, poison arrow frogs (which are minute) and two beautiful red and blue tragons. There were many mosquitos but fortunately I avoided any bites. Long may it last!!