Absolutely the best thing about the hotel was the dive operation. The dive team were extremely professional, friendly and knowledgeable. The equipment was all in excellent condition. The dive boat was a large wooden dhow. Everybody had numbered crates for their gear so you could easily keep all your kit together for the entire holiday. There was none of that Caribbean scrabbling around on a central console for yesterday’s weight belt that someone else had commandeered.
The first dive was a shallow one on the house reef. There were just two of us led by Ahmed. The visibility was poor but there were lots of fish and large batfish swimming up to our faces.
Orbicular Batfish
In total I did 13 dives and I have to say they were very average. The visibility was dreadful, sometimes the current was overpowering and the coral had clearly suffered in the last bleaching of 2016 so was under-whelming. It was recovering but I have experienced much better dives in the Caribbean in places that are not reputed for great diving. The hotel has a marine research lab and they are re-seeding coral which looks healthy and is growing well.
New Coral Being Grown on Ropes
The good points were that there were very few divers, the dive team were great and I met a truly inspirational couple. They were in their 80’s and only took up diving 10 years ago when they retired. Since then they have clocked up 1100+ dives all over the world. The wife Jeri took videos of the dives, which she posted on You Tube and made a tidy sum from advertising with her 10000 followers! I said that much as I love diving , I prefer safaris. Their response was that they did too, but would do that again in the future, when they were too old to dive. What a great attitude!
On our last two dives we were returning to the hotel when we were surrounded by a huge pod of dolphins – probably 100 or more. We stopped the boat, slipped into the sea and were privileged enough to snorkel with them. What a fantastic experience.
I love my room and its location. The room is semi-circular with a large rear garden and direct beach frontage.
All the rooms are set apart and very private. Mine is on the quietest part of the island and located on the best part of the beach. It is consequently the longest walk from restaurants etc but nothing on the island is very far from anything else.
I have a lizard that likes to bask on my patio while I drink my morning tea. He also tries to ambush any low flying insects.
This morning the skies are overcast and rain is forecast. We decide to visit Ravello where even if it rains there will be things to do. Initially we are lucky. The rain holds off and we can order coffee in the main square and sit and watch the world go by.
We wander around the town and go inside a small church – Chiesa S. Francesco. At the front of the church lies a lifelike body (I presume St Francesco)which is encased in glass. The body is clothed and there are transparent panels on his hands and feet where you can see the skeleton beneath. I have to say I was rather uncomfortable with this but each to their own.
The next port of call was Villa Cimbrone which is perched on the hillside with spectacular views and ornate gardens. It is now a hotel but they still charge tourists to visit. Very enterprising.
It started raining cats and dogs but we were not deterred. We had waterproof jackets… and umbrellas… and the view was still great despite the murkiness!
We head back to the hotel to shower and warm ourselves up in preparation for our final dinner. The hotel is family owned and run and all the family were present, including great grandma. It is considered polite to thank them for their hospitality and make a formal presentation of our tips. Now, as I mentioned at the beginning of our stay, we were split into two groups. Our group was the fun one and the other group had, how can I say this nicely, some unusual characters. I’ll avoid the use of real names but the dullest of the group was clearly off the spectrum and had zero social nicety skills. His presentation started off well enough. Very impressive that he could speak fluent Italian and he gushed forth at length to impress us all. We thought he would sit down. But no – there was more. He had re-written words to an Italian opera and proceeded to sing at full volume. Nobody knew where to look and it went on and on. At last he finished and we really did think now he would sit down. To our horror he had roped in another one of his group and he had now written words to a Gilbert & Sullivan opera. There were so many verses….. We had tears running down our faces – it was so cringe making. Anyway not to be outdone our group thought we’d give Bohemian Rhapsody our best shot. The irony was wasted on him. He thought we’d enjoyed his performance and joined in too. Nowt so queer as folk!
Today Bomerano is shrouded in mist and rain is forecast. Severiano wisely changed the order of our itinerary so that we had the best weather and visibility for Vesuvius and The Path of The Gods. Originally there was a choice of visiting Capri or Herculaneum today. Capri is now off the agenda as the weather is too poor.
It seems that the decision to visit Herculaneum today is a good one. As we descend to the coast we find ourselves below the clouds with reasonable visibility. Rain threatens but never actually materialises and the sun peeps out on a couple of occasions.
Herculaneum is very different to Pompeii. Pompeii was engulfed by a pyroclastic flow of billowing clouds of 700°C gas, ash, and rock travelling at up to 725 kilo-meters per hour. This incinerated and demolished almost everything in its path. The pumice rained down destroying the second floors of virtually every building. As a result few of the buildings in Pompeii remain intact. By contrast, Herculaneum escaped the initial eruption but was buried by the second phase where rivers of ash and mud poured down the volcano. The town was buried under 25 metres of mud and ash which preserved and sealed it beautifully. Consequently, the houses are largely intact, paintings and murals still have vibrant colours and bodies were well preserved. It is definitely worth visiting both sites if you have the time. Pompeii is vast; Herculaneum is much smaller but it makes sense of Pompeii.
Herculaneum
I was surprised by my first view of Herculaneum. When you look down on it and can see the whole town and can tell how deeply it was buried. As we entered the town our first view was of the old harbour and merchants stores. People were buried alive here with little or no warning of the impending catastrophe. The bodies shown below are plaster casts of the originals but their posture and placement is identical.
Next we crossed the waterway to stand above the shops and look down across the harbour. We could see excavations taking place and wanted to know what had been discovered. I was a long way off but pretty impressed by the zoom on the iphone. I was astonished to see the ribs of a boat and also, perfectly preserved, the hip, spine and femur of an unfortunate victim. Quite something to be one of the first people to see this after nearly 2000 years.
Excavating the boatNewly discovered skeleton
Below is a taste of the treasures of Herculaneum. Particularly impressive are the numerous mosaics on the floor and vibrant colours on walls and paintings.
Damage to windows from the mud slide…
Below are photos of the well preserved male and female baths.
Particularly well-preserved is the College of Augustals shown below.
The mosaics in Neptune and Amphitrite House shown below.
Some street scenes….
Although Herculaneum was smaller than Pompeii we felt we could have spent longer here. All too soon we had to leave and make our way back to the hotel. The drive back up the mountain was scary. A thick fog had descended and it was very hard to see the road ahead.
Exodus Travels have changed the itinerary today as the weather tomorrow looks poor. So today we will walk The Path of The Gods which has reputedly absolutely spectacular views. The walk from Bomerano to Positano is about 9 km and will take between 3-5 hours. Our group is not the quickest – we like to chat at lunch and stop for photos so I think it will be nearer 5 hours for us. The walk from our hotel is through the centre of Bomerano and then uphill along a little used road. Cyclamen abound and are in full bloom in the woodlands and it is a beautiful walk.
Here we are at the start of the Path. There is a plaque on the cliffside with quotes from DH Lawrence and Italo Calvino, which translate as:-
“Is this the view that from on high along the Path of the Gods, opens to our sight: it is the picture of the great loop of the Amalfi coastline that looks towards the west, towards the Island of Capri, that precipitous coast, steamy, hot, with the crystalline mountains where the gods of today are forsaken and you find a lost self again. Mediterranean, before you.”
D.H.Lawrence
“A journey is on occasion which can be renewed as a choice and a measure of an interior wish: in a sense it is right to restore the fantasy again, starting from the Path of the Gods, that road suspended above the magic bay of the Sirens, furrowed again today by memory and myth.”
Italo Calvino
We set off along the ancient mule tracks and the views are stunning.
What I didn’t expect to see were mules carrying washing machines. Apparently the trails are still in use and are the only way to access the remote houses on this part of the coastline.
We look back at the route behind us and are surprised to see how far we have already travelled. The mules have followed us along the path and are now accompanied by a sheepdog and pigs.
In places the path is very rough and it would be no good at all if you suffered from vertigo. We admire the view. You can see the path ahead winding along the cliffs in the left-hand photo below.
Our guide Severiano leads us to a spot where he says we must take photos. One by one we clamber onto a strategic rock with the best view behind it. It feels very precarious and I daren’t look down. I do think the photo was worth it though!
We stop for lunch at a quaint hillside taverna. We buy refreshments and sit on the verandah eating our picnic lunch and admiring the view. Severiano opens i-tunes on his phone and plays Dean Martin singing “Amore”. We all sway and sing along. This then turns into a full singing session and a ”Name That Tune” competition. Great fun. The group has bonded very well and we are having the best time. This is a very special place indeed. Our guide then plays a classic ballad – the hairs on my neck stand up and we all have tears in our eyes. It feels like The Gods are close. A truly magical experience.
We reluctantly setoff again on the path down to Positano which we can gaze down on as we leave the taverna.
Along our route is a mini statue of Christ The Redeemer.
An hour later and we are high above Positano. There is a choice of hundreds of steps or the bus. We opt for the bus. Included in the bus fare is a wonderfully cool and refreshing iced lemon drink.
I absolutely love Positano. There are wonderful shops to browse and they are not all the normal tacky tourist variety, although of course there are some of those. We meet at a bar on the sea-front for well-earned sundowners.
Finally we board the boat back along the coast to Amalfi. We gaze up at the cliffs which we have now walked the whole way along. We all have a well-justified sense of achievement.
In Amalfi, the coach is waiting to take us back up the winding cliff road to Bomerano. It is absolutely astonishing that coaches can traverse these roads. They are so narrow with extremely sharp hairpin bends. I would not want to drive here. Every car has scars!
