I wake early at 4:30. This is my last day at Lebala, I shall have a game drive at 06.00 as usual ending at Lagoon airstrip for my 10.00 flight to Kwara Camp in the Okavango Delta. I therefore need to pack my bags before breakfast. I eat breakfast and say goodbye to the staff and give them their tips. They have been exceptional hosts and have become good friends. A very special thank you to Mayezi and my tracker. You guys were awesome and great company. Your tracking skills were exceptional and you always went the extra mile to make sure I experienced everything Lebala had to offer. Huge thanks too to Kalafi and your in camp team. You were the best hostess, my room was immaculate and the food was truly scrumptious, although far too much of it for my tiny appetite – as well you know!!

I dictated all my diary notes onto my phone so I could cut and paste them into my blog later. Every so often the phone gets the predictive text very wrong. This is the funniest transposition and an absolute classic. Instead of putting “I eat breakfast” my notes said “I had great sex!!” If only…..

The flight to Kwara arrives on time and the next camp is only a 10 minute transfer from the airstrip.

I am warmly greeted by the staff and meet my driver, George and the camp manager, Charles. Charles gives me an orientation and then takes me to my room. The room is amazing and so much better than I expected. This is seriously high end and I don’t know how I booked it at such a great price! Lebala was very comfortable, but this is true luxury. If I’m honest, I think it is OTT for a safari lodge, but I am not going to look a gift horse in the mouth!

I requested a room near the main area but Charles has given me a room next to the pool as he thought that would be preferable. It’s pretty hot and it’s a flipping long walk to lunch! On the plus side the pool has an excellent bar next to it stocked with everything – spirits, wines, beer, soft drinks, tea, coffee, ice-machine, lemon slices. I mean wow!!

I unpack then stroll to the main area for lunch. The camp is in lush surroundings next to a large lake. Consequently, there is masses of wildlife in camp. I spot baboons, impala, warthogs and numerous birds on my walk. I have a large G&T and tuck into quiche and various salads. Yum! I then chill out by the pool until afternoon tea and my first game drive at Kwara.

The afternoon game drive is incredible. We see lots of plains animals and meet a troop of baboons who let us get close. This was not the case at Lebala where it was difficult to get within 100 yards of them.

This was shortly followed by a beautiful lilac-crested roller and carmine bee-eater who were both sitting in perfect light. Hoorah!!

George asked if I want to look at the elephants. I say I am happy to carry on tracking the lions and leopards. This turns out to be a great decision. Literally a minute later I look ahead and cannot believe my eyes. Incredible – I see a large pack of dogs. I do a double take. I’m scared to say dogs in case I am mistaken. However after a minuscule period of time I realise I am right and say “Dogs! Dogs! Dogs!” The guide and tracker are amazed and congratulate me on my excellent spotting skills. They hadn’t seen them as they were looking down at the tracks on the road. We drive towards them and radio Splash Camp to tell them of our find. The dogs are playing and lazing around but look like they are entering hunting mode.

The two guests staying at Splash Camp arrive shortly and turn out to be the couple that I was on the plane with earlier. The dogs quickly mobilise, initially forming a line of 13 dogs and then grouping and spreading apart spasmodically. The dogs begin to move swiftly and we proceed to track them. They frighten a mother elephant with a young baby. She trumpets wildly, flapping her ears and running into the scrub. It is very exciting.

We set off in pursuit but eventually cannot follow them because the bush is so dense. We will have to circle around the bush and anticipate where they will emerge. We drive very, very fast and it is extremely bumpy and very exhilarating. Grass seed flies up and covers the vehicle and us. If you suffer from hay-fever, this would be a terrible time to visit. With two vehicles in the chase, we stand a slightly better chance of finding them on the far side of the thicket. On numerous occasions we succeed in second-guessing where the dogs will emerge. We succeed in following them for about 40 minutes until eventually they find a dead baby elephant in pretty dense scrub. The smell from the carcass is really gross, but I breathe in through my mouth and watch. This is a very rare sighting: to have not only followed the dogs on a hunt; but to watch them feeding. This is all the more remarkable, as the bush is so lush and thick. Some of the dogs tear into the carcass, but some look pretty well fed and turn their noses up at the rather putrid meal, rather than participate in the feast. We were with the dogs for well over an hour and it really was the most amazing experience. If I see nothing else at my time at Kwara, I will be happy and consider myself incredibly lucky.

The sun is setting so we head off to a pool for sundowners. It was the most amazing sunset.

On our way back to camp we were lucky enough to spot this handsome civet in the long grass. The five course dinner was served by the camp fire. What an awesome start to my stay here!