What an absolutely perfect morning with clear blue sky. We are returning to the Great Bear Rainforest. It was such a special experience yesterday. I can see why our guide refers to this place as Jurassic Park. It certainly has that ‘other worldly’ feel about it. The tide was so low yesterday that we have opted for a later pick-up, scheduled for 08.00. Almost a lie in. As it turns out our departure is even later. One of Tracey’s house guests has moved his car and trailer, but then hidden the keys, instead of leaving them in the ignition where he found them! Tracey is unimpressed and has to ask a friend to take us to the marina. We are chilled and it gives me time to take a picture of our little lodge. Apparently the night before we arrived there was a bear right outside!

What a difference a day makes! The sea is like a mill pond and photos of the impressive scenery are possible.

With higher water levels, passage up the Kildala River is easier though by no means for the faint hearted. We head further up river today as Gunther (the guy who lets us fish in the special pool yesterday) would like to fish there today.

We moor up on a large gravel bank and it is clear to see from the number of footprints and dead salmon that there has been a lot of recent bear activity here.

Paul immediately starts fishing. There are loads of pink salmon here and we can see shoals of them spawning in the shallows. This may be what the bears want to eat, but Paul is after coho and although the fishing is harder than yesterday he is finally rewarded.

After lunch Tracey thinks Gunther will have left the favoured pool and so we return. Gunther has gone but in his place is a helicopter!

We chat to the pilot and I am full of admiration. He is in his eighties and I would say his wife even older, with a walking stick. I suspect in England she would have a blue parking badge. Somehow she gets in and out of the helicopter. Where there’s a will.. Respect for the pioneer spirit! Tracey sweet talks them and they agree to head to another site above the log jam, where boats cannot reach, and leave the pool to us.

It’s been another great day, but sadly no more bears. However I did look at the place where I saw the bear yesterday. Pretty close – 30 yards maybe! Interestingly, Paul was so engrossed in his fishing yesterday that he was totally oblivious to not only its presence… but also his proximity to the bear.

We have a super trip back with some perfect scenery to admire on route.

We relax enjoy some vino blanc on our veranda in the sunshine. Bliss.

We then stroll to the nearest restaurant – Rosario’s. We are shown to our table and surprise! Tracey is there with his wife and friends who are celebrating their wedding anniversary. They tell us to come and join them. They are good company and when we leave, we find that Billy and his wife have shouted us the meal. Too kind. There is a real camaraderie here. I guess that, with remoteness, there comes a need to support each other. I really like the way that everyone here has everyone else’s back. Something largely lost in the UK….