Skeena and Kalum Rivers

Another early start. Today we drive back to Terrace where we shall meet our guide Gordon. He has a jet boat and will take us out on the Skeena River. The locals call the Skeena the river of mists and many mysterious tales are told about it. It is certainly beautiful with the mist drifting over the surface and blanketing the mountain valleys.

We have an exhilerating ride down the river and spot gulls, eagles and the occasional seal. We moor up on a shingle bank and of course at that point all the native wildlife makes itself scarce. Gordon has brought his two year old labrador with him. He is in his element and spends all day paddling through the river and making sure no wildlife appears! Every so often he comes back on board and annoyingly makes everything wet, but otherwise he is pretty well-behaved. I have always regarded fishing as a peaceful pastime but the silence is frequently broken by Gordon regaling us at length with anecdotes and opinions, which he likes to frequently point out are really interesting…… Don’t get me wrong. He’s a really nice guy and very helpful but sometimes guides, like children should be seen and not heard.

It’s a wonderful river and a lovely place to just hang out. This is probably a good thing as the fish are not really engaging. Paul only catches a small coho and a few pink salmon but nevertheless has a super day.

We take a last look at the spectacular scenery….

…then zoom back up the river and take the boat out of the water.

We say farewell to Gordon who is now off on holiday – bow shooting elk.

Dinner is again at Rosario’s which I have now grown to quite like. I think it always takes time to adjust to your surroundings, drop pre-conceived ideas and just fit in with your new environment. It is very much a family place, with friendly staff and wholesome food. Tonight we order burgers and they are really, really good. Prime beef in brioche buns. To my amazement, I eat the lot. I think the jet lag has gone!

We are up again with the lark and driving back to Terrace. However this time we shall be on a very different river. It is narrower, but deep and fast flowing. Paul was here 20 years ago – fishing with Tracey. He loved it, caught loads of steeelhead and is eager to return. We meet our guide – it’s Gordon again. Apparently he has delayed his departure until tomorrow.

He launches the boat, which is not easy. The current is very strong. Paul spends some time fishing, but it is exhausting as the water is so deep and fast flowing and the bottom strewn with boulders. Paul does manage to land a small coho but it is hard work.

We take a break and Gordon guides us through the temperate rainforest…

….to try to get to a swamp clearing. The going is not easy. Initially it looks straightforward but looks can be deceptive. There are devil’s thorns which you do not want to touch. The hairs are really irritating, though the berries are attractive.

The ground is covered in moss which either masks decaying tree trunks, which give way when you stand on them, or hollows where there once was a tree. We must tread carefully. Then the terrain becomes much more jungly with swamp below the surface. We follow elk paths, which enable us to see where the footing may be solidish. We persevere and catch a glimpse of the clearing, though the vegetation is too dense and footing to wet to allow further progress. Nevertheless, we have the satisfaction of having been able to walk through such primordial forest.

Dragonflies skit above the reeds and moss and I desparately try to capture their flight. I need hours not a few minutes. They are so quick and erratic in their movement.

The day has warmed up and the sky brightened.

We move the boat to a new location. The fish are still not really biting, but the riverbanks are lush with wild flowers and berries….

… and loads of baby toads, in assorted colours ranging from brown, green and yellow and barely half an inch long, clamber over the pebbles on the foreshore. We must be careful how we tread.