This morning we are going to walk down to Amalfi. However, first we will see how mozzarella is made. The little cheese factory is situated on the farside of Bomerano and it’s probably a 15 minute walk from the hotel, mainly uphill. Bomerano is very poor and when we arrive at the farmstead we are greeted by ancient, slightly mangy dogs and led into the rather shabby buildings. Personally, I was not a fan of the hot milk smell mixed with farm-yardy odours. I quite liked mozzarella before this experience but having seen it boiled, stretched and plaited, it may take a while before I eat it again. We were able to sample it – I declined!
We then set off on a walk back through town to commence the 13km trek down to Amalfi.
Bomerano is 723 metres above sea level and the descent is down a combination of old mule trails and derelict steps of assorted shapes and sizes. Unbeknown to us our guide wants us to see another village high up on the cliffs. This means we walk downhill on loose gravelly trails for an hour and then uphill for 45 minutes (it seemed longer!). The sun was shining and it was hot for October. I don’t know how people do this in the summer. Eventually we reach the village and settle at a cafe in the main square for a well deserved coffee.
After our short break we commence the descent down to Amalfi. Initially it is easy going along rustic paths and even more rustic steps. We occasionally cross the road which traverses the steep cliff face and is peppered with numerous sharp hairpin bends. The hike is brutal – 2800+ steps and we’ve already walked at least 10km up and down steep slopes. Every so often the terrain flattens out but then to our horror there are more steps. It is relentless. However it goes from bad to worse. Our guide takes us down a steep path, on which a section has suffered a landslide. We had to side-slip down it; putting our poles ahead of our feet to stop an uncontrolled descent on the loose surface. Having survived that we didn’t think it could get worse…. How wrong can you be? The path was blocked for repairs. We had to climb onto a wall over a precipitous drop and manaouvre ourselves around the barrier. It actually was very funny, particularly watching Tim – not the most athletic of us and the person who had fallen earlier.
Walking poles helped but by the time we finally reach Amalfi, everyone’s legs had turned to jelly. I tried at one stage to dart across the road when I saw a car coming. My legs were like lead. Actually quite scary! I cannot imagine how Exodus Travel consider this easy to moderate. It has taken us so long to descend to Amalfi that there is no time for even a drink at a bar. We clamber willingly onto the waiting coach and plonk our weary bodies onto the seats.
We meet in the bar for pre-dinner drinks. They are good – ridiculously cheap and very large. Exactly what is required after such a gruelling day.
One of the couples in our group start complaining to our tour leader that the trip was not what they expected. They thought it was a private tour and were clearly not happy. The husband had really struggled on the walk. Over dinner the situation escalated. Suddenly there were raised voices at the far end of the table, chairs were flung backwards, fingers pointed and the difficult couple stormed out of dinner. The husband clearly had some issues and had been seen with a well depleted bottle of whiskey before dinner. Their room was above mine, with thin walls and floors. At 5 in the morning suitcases were being wheeled around and the husband was saying “But Caroline, you don’t understand. I had to take the higher moral ground”. They flew back to the UK in the morning, which seems pretty extreme behaviour.
“And what was the argument about?”, I hear you ask? Apparently, someone had said they couldn’t stand Boris Johnson! Surely not a reason to cancel your holiday! 🙂
