Category: Tanzania Page 3 of 7

For once we did not need to get up early and could have breakfast at Rivertrees.

This beats the usual packed breakfast consisting of a cardboard box with dubious food items in it. We set off at 08.30 for 10.45 flight from Arusha. Annoyingly the flight is making lots of stops. Lake Manyara, Lobo, Serenara and finally Kogatende, where we disembark. The flight takes the best part of 3 hours and we do not arrive in camp until 15.o0.

We sit under the shade of a tree and are served lunch with a beautiful view of the bush.

Large clouds form in the sky and it is looking certain that there will be rain before the day is out. We have a brief orientation meeting with the manager and are then shown to our tent. The camp have excelled themselves. They have given us a family tent so effectively we have two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Neat!

There is little time to enjoy the room as it is already 16.30 and time for our afternoon game drive.

The first thing we encounter is a carcass with a lot of vulture activity.

We then notice some vehicles parked up not far away and see a lone cheetah lying in the grass. We suspect he made the kill that the vultures are now devouring. We sit and watch for an hour or more. It starts to rain heavily and the light is poor but I still manage some half decent shots.

The rain eventually eases and the sun appears below the clouds. We practice different sunset techniques. Our guide Qamara is a keen photographer. We are going to get on exceptionally well.

We make it back to camp at 18.45 – a quick change, then G&T’s round the campfire and dinner. We have an interesting evening chatting to a Coastal Aviation pilot , who it turns out, knows my friend Julien Polet from Mahale very well. Small world. We continue with a bottle of red wine around the campfire before bed.

Well – that was a surprisingly straightforward day’s travel. Apart from the hour long queue to check in everything else was very smooth. We watched a beautiful September sunrise as we took off from Heathrow and saw lots of wind turbines as opposed to windmills as we came into land at Amsterdam.

The second leg of our flight would have been on time had it not been for an abusive passenger who was removed from the plane and we had to wait for his luggage to be located. The flight was not full and we had the central three seats between the two of us. Although we flew economy there was lots of leg room, the crew were great and I would fly with KLM again.

Kilimanjaro Airport lulled us into a false sense of security. Passport and covid documents were checked very rapidly before entering the terminal. Then it was SLOW! Fortunately we were at the front of the queue. Second in fact. It only took an hour for us to get through from there. I feel sorry for the 300 passengers behind us. Surprisingly local residents just barged their way through and were speedily processed.

We collected our bags, put them through the X-ray machine that no-one was monitoring and left the terminal. Our driver Abdullah was waiting and sped us to Rivertrees – our hotel for the night. I have stayed here several times before and it is an excellent transit stop. We were warmly welcomed and shown to our room which only had one bed. Huge apologies from the staff. We went to have a drink and bite to eat while they transferred our bags to a room with twin beds. We are not a couple!!

Well, this is a good sign. I get out of bed and the clouds are dispersing. Today we might be lucky. I sit on the verandah and prepare to pour myself a cup of tea. A tray has been left for me. It has a very heavy wooden cover over the top to prevent the vervet monkeys stealing anything before I can get to it. I pour my tea and eat a biscuit. The biscuits are home-made and so good!

I pack my backpack with cameras and binoculars, pick up my water bottle and head off for breakfast. We have again been told to eat breakfast at 08.00 and be ready to leave at a moment’s notice. I am just eating my eggs when Mwiga appears smiling. Some chimps have been found and if we take the boat to a nearby bay it will only be a short walk to find the chimpanzees. We gulp down our breakfast and make last minute toilet runs. Mwiga is impatient. He says “You do not understand. These are chimpanzees not gorillas. They move fast – you must hurry.”

We climb aboard the boat and head for the next bay. We quickly disembark and then walk pretty swiftly behind Mwiga. This is much easier than yesterday The terrain is fairly flat and we are on a broad track. We still need to watch out for ants and holes dug by bush pigs but otherwise the going is easy. Then after seemingly no time at all, Mwiga says “Look ahead. They they are.” We catch our first glimpse of the chimpanzees sitting ahead of us on the path.

To prevent us transmitting any diseases to the chimpanzees we are required to wear surgical masks when we get close. We also must keep a 10 meter distance from them. In practice this does not work as the chimps know nothing of this rule and very frequently approach us. We put on our masks and I pull my camera out of my rucksack.

I start trying to take photographs but immediately have a great deal of trouble. Everything is out of focus. The light is poor and the shutter speed is slow. This is hopeless. I switch my camera to video mode as that is always reliable in low light. Unfortunately, that is just recording blackness too. What the heck is wrong? I look at my camera lens. It is covered in condensation as humidity must be close on to 100%.

I grab a clean tissue and clean the lens. That seems better but I am still taking blurred shots. I pull out my little Olympus Tough and try using that. It’s OK but not a good enough zoom. In the meantime Mwiga has taken my camera to see if he has more success. He does not but as he hands it back to me I notice that the ND filter is on. I was using this to capture blurred rain shots yesterday and have not turned it off. That is probably the issue and it proves to be the case. However, these are incredibly challenging conditions and taking any quality shots is nigh on impossible but we all persevere. At the moment it looks like people are having more success with their iPhones. Shame I left mine in my room!

In our first encounter we meet Primus the alpha male. He makes his presence known to us by showing off. This includes screaming incredibly loudly and grabbing vines and shaking them violently.

He then sits on the path and is joined by two other chimps and they groom each other. Orion the No.2 is also here. Orion is not popular as he is selfish and is pushy with the females.He briefly sits with the group and then moves to the side of the track and sits on his own. Everyone ignores him and he is unlikely to ever become the alpha male as he lacks support from the other chimps. We end up watching a morning grooming session and then Nkombo (female) wants to play. Primus is not interested and she uses her best ploys to entice him. This includes playing with Primus’ tackle but he is not in the least interested. Very amusing to watch though!

Just as I am getting into the swing of taking photos on slow shutter speed the chimps decide to move from the path into the forest where it is much darker. They move slowly so we are able to follow them. More chimpanzees appear. Each chimpanzee has his own personality and we see a range of different behaviour.There is a combination of calm sitting, posing, and submissive screaming from a female carrying a baby. She rushes past us and disappears into the undergrowth to gain safety from we humans.

We follow the chimps deeper into the forest.

More appear and several walk towards me. I cannot believe how close they are. I continue filming and the first chimp walks straight up to me and stops by my feet. He is inches away. Unbelievable! I catch my breath, he moves on and another follows and does exactly the same thing. I never ever thought I would get so close.

There is one particular chimp called Michio who is a bit of a character. He took pleasure in posing on a tree branch and presented numerous amusing and interesting poses. We watched him closely, and at one stage, I obviously held eye contact for slightly too long. He jutted his head forward and looked at me as if to say “What are you staring at?” I looked away and he adopted a new pose with his back to me. Eventually he climbed down and proceeded to walk away. We were all fairly close and standing in a line. He strolled past us and as he came to Cristin, who was standing at the end he sidled up to her and gave her a quick slap on the wrist. She said that she also had been staring at him and reckons this was a chastisement from him. We share 98.7% of our DNA with chimpanzees and this was such a human-like action. I am delighted to say that I managed to capture the whole incident on video. This includes our laughter and surprised comments.

To protect the chimpanzees privacy visitors are only allowed to be with the chimps for maximum one hour per day and we are not allowed to track for more than three hours. All too soon our time is at an end and we must return to camp. We are accompanied by a ranger who ensures that we obey the rules. I think he was slightly lenient today as he felt sorry for us having walked for a long time yesterday with no encounter at the end of it.

Looks like we’re all in need of a snooze after our morning’s adventure!

When we arrive back at camp we are told our hot showers are ready. That shower feels so great after all the hot and sweaty trekking. I lie on the bed and write up some more of my blog until it is mid-day. Time for a glass of wine I think. I head over to the main camp and see a troop of vervet monkeys running around on the beach beside it. They are so cute and entertaining. I have my phone with me so stop to take some pictures with it.

The food here is really excellent and always seems to be exactly what you want to eat. Today lunch is Spanish omelette with lots of different salads. Totally delicious and the wine is pretty good too. Julien asks us what we should like to do this afternoon. Swim or boat trip or both? Cristin, John and I opt for an active afternoon so we choose both. Helen and Nina opt for a restful afternoon soaking up the ambience. Actually Helen is a great photographer and was eager to start editing her photos so I think she was quite busy in our absence.

We climb aboard the boat and head south down the coast. A direction we have not been before. Here there are tall reed beds and sandy beaches. It turns out there are also tsetse flies – nothing like as bad as on safari but nevertheless we all grab the bug spray pretty rapido!

I wish now that I had brought my big camera out. The birdlife is superb. Kingfishers abound and there are many varieties. They perch on branches and hover over the crystal clear water. The scenery is magnificent and I feel so privileged to be in this wonderful untouched wilderness. We head a little way up a small river. John and I wonder how we are going to turn round. It is pretty narrow and the boat is not very manoeuvrable. It turns out to be fine. The skipper has clearly done this before. He finds a slightly wider part of the channel and commences a three-point turn. It was all going very well until the boat hook caught on the reeds and snapped in half. I should mention at this point that the boat hook is home-made and you can see it on the bow in the pictures below. However it is a vital piece of equipment as buoys need to be picked up when we moor up and there are no handy chandlers in which to purchase a new one. We therefore nose the boat further into the reed beds to recover the broken hook and eventually complete our turn and head back to the lake.

This is hippo and crocodile territory. We do not see any, although we do see large imprints on the sand where crocs have been lying down. As there are so many hippos and crocs it is not safe to swim from the shore. We have to go out into deep water. Cristin and I are slightly apprehensive now. We have seen the evidence of animals that like to eat people. We are not totally convinced that the crocs cannot be bothered to swim a few hundred yards to devour us. Furthermore, as we cannot see any crocs on the banks, we are pretty sure they are all in the water just waiting for a tasty morsel!

Still, we do not want to appear churlish. We leap from the bow into the water with apparent enthusiasm. Today it is not as warm and deep grey clouds are forming over the mountains. John comments on how blue the sky is and “Isn’t it great that it is brightening up”. Hello?? The sky is black!! Now in fairness to John he was not wearing his glasses at the time but as Helen rightly observed later “This should not affect his ability to see colour”. I nickname him Mr Blue Sky. Inflatables are once more thrown down to us and we bob around in them for a while but the nagging doubt that beasties are lurking in the depths takes the edge off the enjoyment factor. Cristin and I lie and say it is a bit cold. We climb on board and I can then enjoy my sundowner G&T in complete safety. We head back to shore and the mooring ball is picked up with extreme efficacy by the implementation of a broom.

Another hot shower has been prepared for me. It is cooler tonight so I wear long sleeves to dinner. We eat inside as rain is definitely on its way. We can see dramatic lightning flashes over the Congo mountains on the horizon. Dinner conversation is easy. Cristin and Nina attack the amarula and conversation flows. Somehow at 23.00 talk turns to the pros and cons of having children. Julien sits politely at the end of the table but is very quiet. I am sure he is wishing we would all go to bed and stop talking about babies! We do eventually oblige but I am not sure at what time.