Sierpe to Carate

There are only two ferries a day from Sierpe to Drake Bay – 11.30 or 16.00. This gives us time for a leisurely breakfast before Stephanie drops us off at the jetty.

It all seems very organised. A man comes over to us and asks where we are going. He introduces us to our boat captain and are told they will let us know when our boat is ready to depart. It’s 09.30 and already very hot. Time for a watermelon smoothie and people watching.

It’s 11.20 and people are being called to join their boats. We see lots of boats departing and there do not seem to be many people left. Despite assurances that we would be called we are beginning to feel uneasy. I suddenly see our captain with a full boat and about to depart. I tell the man organising boats and, after a bit of shouting to and fro between them, it is decided that our captain should not be our captain and we should board a different boat. That was almost full too, but we managed to nab the last two seats that were in the shade. Phew! To miss that ferry would have been mega-annoying. It would mean catching the 16.00 ferry and driving at dusk on officially the worst road in Costa Rica.

We reach Drake and the boat reverses up close to the beach. Shoes off and step into the sea which is about knee high. Good. I won’t get my shorts wet this time…… Unfortunately as I clamber off a huge wave hits the boat which splooshes up my backside and completely soaks me. No big deal. I grab some different shorts and pants and change in the toilet before our 3 hour drive to Carate.

We start our journey up the track from the hotel and the car is beeping. I haven’t closed the boot properly. I get out and really slam it. Clouds of dust engulf me – our car is absolutely filthy with ¼ inch dust sitting on the bumper and the back window is completely covered. It was a brand new car and doesn’t even have number plates yet – just a notice taped to the front windscreen saying what the number will be.

The track is so steep that the car will not move. We have stopped on a large rock. Paul has to reverse, pick the flattest bit of surface and wellie it. We make it. A test for the hour drive from Drake to Rincon which we know is brutal. Indeed it is worse than we remember it. Maybe not having driven for a few days is making it seem more challenging…..

We did have a thorough laugh at one stage, though. There was a very steep section, with large gullies and potholes. We had to weave from side to side to avoid damaging the vehicle. Then we see men working ahead. Ah – good we think. They are repairing the road. Not so. They are strimming the verges! Clearly vital to have beautifully maintained borders to your thoroughfares whatever their condition. You could not make it up.

The rest of the drive is comparatively straightforward apart from the interesting bridges on the stretch between Puerto Jimenez and Carate. The bridges are just a narrow strip of concrete with no edge or railings. I can tell you it focuses the mind. Health and safety? Not in Costa Rica!

As we drive up to the hotel – Laguna Villas, all the hardship of the journey is forgotten. This place is paradise. This is a tiny boutique hotel with just 8 rooms. It is owner run and Greg and his wife Keiko greet us warmly, hand us a beer and show us to comfy, squashy chairs on the terrace. The views are stunning. Red macaws squawk in the trees and a toucan puts in an appearance. Annoyingly I have not unloaded my camera yet.

Keiko escorts us to our room which far exceeds our expectations. It is large with a huge terrace overlooking the lagoon and Pacific. Yes – this will do very nicely thank you.

We shower and sit on our terrace to unwind. Before we know it, the sun is setting and we head up to the bar for sundowners. Greg tells us to sit and be comfortable. Our G&T’s arrive and, at last, they are proper ones that have not had something weird added and contain a really good slug of gin. Excellent. Greg sits and chats to us, telling us about how they have developed the hotel over the last 18 years. They started with nothing, replanted the grounds which had been cleared of the rain-forest. They have created something truly exceptional. This is a very,very special place.

We have the choice to eat alone or with the other guests. We choose a communal meal with a couple from Maine and their teenage daughter and a couple from Alaska. Greg also joins us. The food is good as is the company. These are interesting people and there is a lot of banter. It would have been easy to linger too late drinking wine but we were tired, so actually did the sensible thing and headed off to bed.