Day 10 Safari Time!

I wake early for 05.30 departure to Arusha airport. I am offered a cup of coffee at hotel reception while I wait for my driver. Once he arrives I am handed my breakfast box and we set off. It is still dark – cool but not cold and I alternate between wearing my jacket and taking it off but decide in the end it is good mosquito protection. Yes the little critters are here too though not so many.

Tanzanian driving leaves a bit to be desired. It can be terrifying or, as this morning, laborious when I had captain slow. He was certainly safe. Most of the road to the airport is dual carriageway. It has frequent raised zebra crossings with 3 sets of rumble strips before them. My driver took every crossing at 10km max and the frequent breaking made me feel a little queasy. Finally we reach the airport, I pass through security and sit and open my breakfast box. I can identify the banana but have absolutely no idea what is in my roll. Mango and passion fruit mash I think. Anyway it tastes OK and fills a gap. Now to wait. I was told to go to Gate 4 at 07.10 but when I was here with Rachel in September we did not depart until 09.00….

Well we went to Gate 4 on time but had to pass through security a second time. I noticed the tight security last time I was here and believe it is to restrict animal trophy trafficking. Surprisingly we took off on time for the short hop to Lake Manyara. We have a pilot and co-pilot but at this stage do not realise that the co-pilot is a trainee. The landing strip is on top of an escarpment and last time I landed at Manyara we headed straight for a cliff face and touched down directly on top of it. Fortunately this time the wind is in the opposite direction so we approach towards the drop-off. We descend – I see the runway. We do not land, we wobble 10yds, 50 yds, 100 yds and finally half way down the runway we touch down….but only briefly! Up we go again – alarms go off, lights flashing, 3 more hops. The senior pilot seems calm and I comfort myself with the thought that there is nothing at the end of the runway but air so perhaps I shall live another day. Then miraculously we are down and somehow stop before the runway runs out. I disembark with relief and feel sorry for the other passengers who have 2 more landings to make.

My driver from the camp meets me and says “What happened on your landing? It looked very unusual.” Yes indeed!

It is a 3 hour trip to Entamanu Camp but the journey is interesting. The landscape is green and lush, we pass coffee plantations and neatly maintained smallholdings. There is no litter to be seen and, in stark contrast to Kenya across the border, the road is well maintained. There are strict speed limits so driving is leisurely.

After an hour we reach the entrance to Ngorongoro National Park. We have a 20 minute stop while my driver buys the permit. I climb back in and we start the long ascent on a red dusty and bumpy track.

We have no sooner entered the park when we encounter a huge troop of baboons. They are most entertaining, with lots of tiny babies. We drive slowly alongside them probably for the best part of a mile. A wonderful taster of things to come. We also saw buffalo and a smaller troop of baboons.

….and then …Wow! I see the crater for the first time and it is awe-inspiring. There is a viewing platform and a climb out of the vehicle and take photos. I am so lucky – the weather is perfect and there are no clouds to mar the view and very few tourists too.

We continue our journey, the road deteriorates and the scenery changes from dense jungle to open high savannah. Masai villages are scattered on the hillsides and cattle and goats are grazing accompanied by their Masai herdsmen.

Eventually we arrive at Nomad Entamanu Camp. The staff greet me and instantly pour me a G&T – nice welcome! I am shown to my tent. Well it is only a tent because of the canvas walls. It is very comfortable with a huge bed, armchairs and large bathroom…

…and the most spectacular view over the crater. I freshen up and then have lunch where I am also am given my afternoon plan.

I am to go for a walk with a Masai guide which I am really looking forward to. My guide is accompanied by a ranger who is carrying an AK47!

We set off through quite thick forest. The path is narrow with overhanging acacias and plants so despite the 28C temperature I am told to don my fleece. I am sweltering but protected from scratches and poisonous plants. If stung by the African nettle below you will be in agony for 5 days!

Beautiful lilies are growing wild.

We stop frequently to be shown different plants and animals tracks. One of the trees has a log hanging from it. This has been hollowed out and is effectively a bee hive and the Masai collect honey from it.

We walk downhill for about an hour and eventually arrive at a clearing. Here at last I can take my fleece off. What a relief! I notice many plants growing around me that look very much like marijuana and guess what. That’s exactly what they are – growing wild everywhere! There is another amazing view but this time looking over the Rift Valley. I take some pictures and then we start our return to camp. Having walked here downhill the return was all uphill and steep, but this time on a track. I do not have to weave my way through dense foliage anymore but is hot and a long ascent. I am relieved to be able to take off my fleece. Mgnana my guide gives me his stick to assist my ascent and it definitely is a help. We walk very slowly and finally make it to the top. I am very thirsty on my return, so time for another G&T before showering and meeting the other guests for pre-dinner drinks.

Everyone is chatty and I meet my guide – Sammy. I am also introduced to Allyson and Benjamin who I am to share a vehicle with tomorrow. They are early 30’s and on their honeymoon but that does not prove an issue. We instantly fall into easy conversation and they prove to be exceptionally good company for the rest of my stay here. We have a fun meal then sit outside star-gazing with a bottle of wine before finally heading off to bed.

When I return to my tent it is toastie as there is a gas heater which has been turned on full and a hot water bottle in my bed. All very civilised and cosy.