We have been told to meet for breakfast at 08.00 and be completely ready with cameras, water bottles and ponchos. The trackers set off at the break of day and as soon as they locate the chimpanzees they will notify us. Chimps move around the forest fast and can disappear into really inaccessible terrain so we need to be ready to move at a moments notice. Breakfast is good – there is a menu with lots of choices. I opt for scrambled egg and avocado on toast. It totally hits the spot, along with fruit, juice and coffee.

We sit and wait, 09.00 no news, 10.00 the trackers have found the chimps but they are in a valley and not easy to get to. Julien says he is sorry but we must wait and be patient. We are fine as we are all here for 3 days so feel we have time on our side. Then it starts to rain. Not a light shower but proper torrential stuff with a strong gusty wind. This sends us into hiding and the chimps will be sheltering too. Nothing for it but to chat, read and try taking clever photos of the rain. I have not really got much of a clue what I am doing but it seems like a good opportunity to become more familiar with my camera settings.


Eventually the rain eases up. Julien suggests we have an early lunch in case the chimps start moving about later. The rain stops and the sun starts to come out. We all go back to rest in our rooms having been trapped in the communal area for the past two hours. Someone will come to get us if there is any sign of action. I lie on my bed and write up some more of my blog when I here grunting outside my room. I think it must be a bush pig as there are many around here but it is a troop of vervet monkeys and they are arguing with the red-tailed monkey over territory. The vervets win and then entertain me for half an hour or so. I grab my camera and try to capture their antics. Boy they are quick and there are a lot of leaves! Combine that with the fact that they are in trees and the light is behind them and I am starting to realise that I have many camera technique deficiencies. I feel this is going to be another sharp learning curve if I want any decent shots at all. Well, I am never one to be beaten and in the end I think I did OK.





As the weather has cleared Julien asks me if I would like to do a bush walk. We probably will not see the chimps but you never know….

Mwiga leads the way and the five of us follow him down the track. This looks like a well used path so we do not need to claw our way through the undergrowth. This is a pleasant surprise as I thought it may be like the vegetation at Ngorongoro which was thick and lush. I suppose, because there is a thick tree canopy here, not much light penetrates to the forest floor. However this path has different obstacles. It of course rained very heavily earlier and the ground is muddy and slippery. Not a problem on the flat but much of our path is up and down valleys so watching your footing requires much concentration. Before we set off we were told to tuck our trousers in our socks as a defence against safari and Matabele ants. Mwiga says that their bite is the most painful thing that you can experience. Helen says he obviously has not had a baby! You absolutely do not want these inside your trousers and as we discover there are quite a few columns of them marching through the undergrowth. Before long we encounter a small stream and need to cross it by footbridge. The bridge is rustic with nothing to hold on to. I am not at all sure that it is safe. We cross one at a time and everyone is relieved to reach the far side. In fairness the drop is not that great – probably only 10 feet or so but it would still hurt!

We are not allowed to wear hats as they will block our sight and we will not see low branches. Equally sunglasses are not necessary and insect repellant has to be used in camp. No chemicals are allowed in the forest. I have to say I am surprised that actually there are very few insects in the forest. The eco-system must be very well balanced. I do hear cicadas which are incredibly noisy and I see ants and butterflies but little else. We march on, it is hot and humid but actually quite fun. I just get wary on slippery downslopes and like to take Mwiga’s hand to steady me. We walk towards the chimps and do hear them but they are in a deep valley so sadly we shall not meet them today. After a couple of hours hard walking we return to camp. At least we have all experienced the forest and know a bit more what to expect tomorrow.
Back at camp, never has a hot shower been more welcome (or a G&T). A campfire has been lit on the beach and we sit with pre-dinner drinks. Dinner is under cover tonight as it is likely there will be rain later. We look over the lake and can see flashes of lightning over the Congo. Julien apologises and says he is sure we will see the chimps tomorrow. We are all surprisingly relaxed – believing that it is only a matter of time. Although we did not see the chimps today it has been a wonderful day. Very relaxed after a hard week on safari so actually I think we are all quite happy to not have been too active today.




I head off to bed and fall asleep almost immediately. I wake at 04.00 to hear strange sounds. I have no idea what they are. A grunting outside then scratching above me. I could do with using the bathroom but really do not fancy the walk to get there. I think I shall stay put. There is nothing inside the mosquito net and that is of comfort. The best plan is to go back to sleep asap. Thank goodness I am one of those lucky people who can sleep at the drop of a hat. The next thing I know is that my early morning tea and biscuits are waiting for me on the decking.
Lynne
I have run out of superlatives to describe how much I am enjoying the blog. Your words easily allow me to imagine you in these far flung places and enable me to help understand your love of Africa. I can at least live a little from your words and especially the photos as I know I will never enjoy any of these experiences myself.
I am waiting for Day 19 to know if you see the chimps.
maggiegoingsolo
I am so pleased that you are feeling my passion for Africa through my blog. For me it has a cleansing quality, I feel so in touch with nature and so alive. For sure I have come home as a very different person. At Mahale especially I could feel all the anxieties and pain just slipping away. Don’t understand it but quite extraordinary.
Catherine Melvin
Amazing experiences! I am loving the fabulous photos – many of which bring back happy memories of our trip. We obviously need to return to see the chimps – or did you?? Bring on the next instalment!!