Sep22 Olakira Mara Camp

We are woken with a cup of tea in the room at 06.00. It is a beautiful morning and the sun is just below the horizon.

However I woke earlier at 04.00. I heard wildebeest calls of anguish followed by lions roaring. I am sure they have made a kill and it is very close to my tent. Hyenas start to whoop close by too. When the tea arrives I am told three lions have made a kill just behind my tent.

We meet Qamara at 06.30 at our vehicle and set-off to the river in the hope of seeing a crossing. The rains have come early this year and there were a lot of mass crossings last week. I am not overly optimistic about our chances. We have only travelled a very short distance when we see vehicles and spot 3 lions by the side of the track. We stop and take some very acceptable photos but the morning is about to give so much more.

We hear on the radio that there is a mating pair of lions close by. We drive a short distance and see a handsome young male and very healthy looking lioness. It is not long before they get down to business.

Reluctantly we leave the mating lions and head further west in hope of seeing a river crossing. It’s a long drive. We pass the airstrip and continue over the rough terrain on a zigzag course, running parallel with the Mara river. We drive to the furthest crossing point – No.0 and wait. Wildebeest do the usual teasing thing of going down a bank and changing their mind. In the end three wildebeest choose the steepest bank they can find and descend. More follow and they find it impossible to climb back up. The result…..a crossing!! Not huge but nonetheless impressive and the light is perfect so a good number of very acceptable action shots. All this and it is not yet 10 o’clock.

We park by a tree for a toilet break and breakfast. Unfortunately the tree is infested by fire ants. I avoid being bitten but Jane acquires a few unwelcome visitors up her trouser leg and a few bites too!

Bush breakfast is always wonderful. Omelette, sausage, bacon, fruit and muffins accompanied by tea for Jane and coffee for me and the most amazing view.

After breakfast we patiently stake out further transit points in the hope of viewing another crossing but there are no more this morning. However, we watch masses of plains game, chat and just soak up the amazing location that we are privileged enough to be visiting. This is such a special place. Finally we head back to camp for a late lunch – burgers and papaya sorbet. Very welcome after 7 hours out in the vehicle.

After lunch I write up yesterday’s s blog and select the best of this morning’s photos. No small feat – I have taken just under 3000 photos ao far!!

At 16.30 we set off again and joke with Qamara that he will struggle to better this morning’s drive. Oh ye of little faith!! First we find the mating lions, plus anther male and 3 females. We watch for an hour or more as the sky darkens and the temperature drops. It may rain again. Finally we head off and receive a call that a leopard has been seen. We see other vehicles and there is the most beautiful leopard sitting on top of a low ridge of rocks. We are distant and the light is waining but I have some great shots. We start to drive 0ff. At the same time the leopard is spooked. She runs in our direction and we second guess where she will go. We always manage to stay just ahead. This is probably the most interactive leopard experience I have ever had.

We drive around a rocky outcrop and see a male and female lion occupying it. At the same time the leopard appears and stands at the far end oblivious to the potential danger,. The male lion raises his head, sniffs the air and looks at the leopard. This is not good. What will happen? I dread to think….

Surprisingly nothing at all. The leopard scent marks and then heads directly for our vehicle. I have the wrong lens – it is too long and she is too close. She is heading straight at me then, directly beneath me and under the vehicle and out the other side. Wow! I mean wow! None of us can believe what we have just experienced.

Rain now looks very imminent. The light is fading fast but there is just enough time to take some great sunset cloud shots.

We dump our gear in the tent and head straight for the campfire and pre-dinner drinks. Again the company is good and dinner table chat flows.