Category: Tanzania 2019 Page 3 of 5

I wake early for a 06.00 departure so we can be first down to the crater. I get out of bed. It is so cold! There is a gas convector heater in the room which I hastily turn on. It is extremely effective and quickly takes the chill off the air. I put my fleece and puffa on and head for breakfast. There are huge gas effect coal fired in the main area which are all blazing away so breakfast is a warm affair.

I collect my camera from the room and head for the vehicle. The engine is running, there are brightly coloured Masai blankets on the seat and a hot water bottle to keep us warm. I am glad we have a closed vehicle. It is much too cold at this altitude for an open one.

Allyson and Benjamin climb in too and we set off. The sun is not yet up but the sky is turning pink and we pass giraffes silhouetted against the skyline. We stop to take pictures and move on. Entamanu Camp is the closest camp to the descent road, which was one of my reasons for choosing it, but it is still half an hour on bumpy dirt tracks to reach it. As we start to descend we catch a glimpse of the crater with the sun just rising over the distant rim. Eland and impala graze in the undergrowth and brightly coloured superb starlings dart from tree to tree. It is very beautiful but hard to take any good photos as we are facing directly into the sun.

We finally reach the crater floor and begin our drive. Almost immediately we spot 4 lions so we stop for the first of many photo opportunities. In fact this is the first time I have ever flattened the battery on my camera. There is so much to see and the camera is turned on pretty continuously.

Everyone says the crater can be very crowded but incredibly today it is very quiet and it is a surprisingly private and privileged experience made all the better by the fantastic weather. I shall not list everything we saw – I shall let the photos tell their own story.

There was one incident however that is worth mentioning. We stopped to look at a black backed jackal that was seeking shade in long grass by the roadside. Almost immediately he stood up and went under the vehicle for shade. Sammy started the engine and the jackal came out and looked up at us as if to say “What are you doing? I am trying to get some rest.” This happened 4 times – we accordingly could take some great close-ups.

We also saw a wildebeest that had just given birth being harassed by 2 golden jackals. They wanted the afterbirth and the mother was trying to defend her calf and chase them off. Jackals are quick and won the battle.

The only place that was crowded was the picnic area by a hippo pool where there are restrooms. Here there were maybe 20 vehicles but Sammy says this is nothing – he has seen 200-300 here in the past. I cannot think how unpleasant that would make the whole experience. We are lucky indeed and I understand January is a good time to visit as it tends to be quieter.

It is very hot in the crater and ice cold beers are very welcome on our drive back for a late lunch. There are 3 different beers in the cool box. We all choose different ones and Allyson discovers that Kilimanjaro beer is very fizzy and continually froths out of the bottle as we drive along the dusty and very bumpy tracks. Serengeti and Safari beers are much better behaved.

After lunch we only have a short break before setting off to see a Masai boma which the lodge sponsors. We are greeted with a Masai welcome dance and song and then to our horror are ‘invited’ to join in. It does not seem optional. Masai necklaces are placed around our necks and Benjamin is handed a stick. We hold hands and have to jump. We are not in time. It is exhausting and hilarious. We are relieved when it is over. Lsenge our Masai host takes my camera to film the whole sorry episode. It turns out this is not his forte. He has taken great footage… of our feet!

Next we go inside a hut. It is very dark and cramped but to my relief clean and not particularly smelly. A fire burns in the centre so it is a little smoky. I sit on a dried cowhide platform which is suspended on sticks and is the bed. There is crude shelving on one wall for pots and pans and a fenced off area for the baby animals. The hut is built by the women and 7 people can live in it. The Masai take several wives and each wife will have her own hut.

We leave the hut and outside seems very bright. There is then an array of beaded jewellery and ornaments for us to see and buy if we would like. The items are made by the women in all the local villages and at the end of each month the proceeds are shared out. We barter and all buy something and feel it is far preferable to buying something in a souvenir shop.

On our way back sundowners have been prepared and all the guests gather for drinks and chat looking out over the Rift Valley. Then it is back to camp for a quick freshen up and dinner. Dinner is again communal. There are some new guests and they are good company. After dinner we head for the lounge, fires are blazing. It is cosy and feels very much like after dinner in someone’s home. It ends up with the 5 of us staying up until 23.30 (late for a safari). There is a party of 6 Americans staying here and they keep themselves to themselves and are quite dull and earnest. The camp manager asks us to be quieter as they have complained….. We finish the wine, swap emails, hug and say our farewells. I shall leave first thing tomorrow for my next camp.

I wake early for 05.30 departure to Arusha airport. I am offered a cup of coffee at hotel reception while I wait for my driver. Once he arrives I am handed my breakfast box and we set off. It is still dark – cool but not cold and I alternate between wearing my jacket and taking it off but decide in the end it is good mosquito protection. Yes the little critters are here too though not so many.

Tanzanian driving leaves a bit to be desired. It can be terrifying or, as this morning, laborious when I had captain slow. He was certainly safe. Most of the road to the airport is dual carriageway. It has frequent raised zebra crossings with 3 sets of rumble strips before them. My driver took every crossing at 10km max and the frequent breaking made me feel a little queasy. Finally we reach the airport, I pass through security and sit and open my breakfast box. I can identify the banana but have absolutely no idea what is in my roll. Mango and passion fruit mash I think. Anyway it tastes OK and fills a gap. Now to wait. I was told to go to Gate 4 at 07.10 but when I was here with Rachel in September we did not depart until 09.00….

Well we went to Gate 4 on time but had to pass through security a second time. I noticed the tight security last time I was here and believe it is to restrict animal trophy trafficking. Surprisingly we took off on time for the short hop to Lake Manyara. We have a pilot and co-pilot but at this stage do not realise that the co-pilot is a trainee. The landing strip is on top of an escarpment and last time I landed at Manyara we headed straight for a cliff face and touched down directly on top of it. Fortunately this time the wind is in the opposite direction so we approach towards the drop-off. We descend – I see the runway. We do not land, we wobble 10yds, 50 yds, 100 yds and finally half way down the runway we touch down….but only briefly! Up we go again – alarms go off, lights flashing, 3 more hops. The senior pilot seems calm and I comfort myself with the thought that there is nothing at the end of the runway but air so perhaps I shall live another day. Then miraculously we are down and somehow stop before the runway runs out. I disembark with relief and feel sorry for the other passengers who have 2 more landings to make.

My driver from the camp meets me and says “What happened on your landing? It looked very unusual.” Yes indeed!

It is a 3 hour trip to Entamanu Camp but the journey is interesting. The landscape is green and lush, we pass coffee plantations and neatly maintained smallholdings. There is no litter to be seen and, in stark contrast to Kenya across the border, the road is well maintained. There are strict speed limits so driving is leisurely.

After an hour we reach the entrance to Ngorongoro National Park. We have a 20 minute stop while my driver buys the permit. I climb back in and we start the long ascent on a red dusty and bumpy track.

We have no sooner entered the park when we encounter a huge troop of baboons. They are most entertaining, with lots of tiny babies. We drive slowly alongside them probably for the best part of a mile. A wonderful taster of things to come. We also saw buffalo and a smaller troop of baboons.

….and then …Wow! I see the crater for the first time and it is awe-inspiring. There is a viewing platform and a climb out of the vehicle and take photos. I am so lucky – the weather is perfect and there are no clouds to mar the view and very few tourists too.

We continue our journey, the road deteriorates and the scenery changes from dense jungle to open high savannah. Masai villages are scattered on the hillsides and cattle and goats are grazing accompanied by their Masai herdsmen.

Eventually we arrive at Nomad Entamanu Camp. The staff greet me and instantly pour me a G&T – nice welcome! I am shown to my tent. Well it is only a tent because of the canvas walls. It is very comfortable with a huge bed, armchairs and large bathroom…

…and the most spectacular view over the crater. I freshen up and then have lunch where I am also am given my afternoon plan.

I am to go for a walk with a Masai guide which I am really looking forward to. My guide is accompanied by a ranger who is carrying an AK47!

We set off through quite thick forest. The path is narrow with overhanging acacias and plants so despite the 28C temperature I am told to don my fleece. I am sweltering but protected from scratches and poisonous plants. If stung by the African nettle below you will be in agony for 5 days!

Beautiful lilies are growing wild.

We stop frequently to be shown different plants and animals tracks. One of the trees has a log hanging from it. This has been hollowed out and is effectively a bee hive and the Masai collect honey from it.

We walk downhill for about an hour and eventually arrive at a clearing. Here at last I can take my fleece off. What a relief! I notice many plants growing around me that look very much like marijuana and guess what. That’s exactly what they are – growing wild everywhere! There is another amazing view but this time looking over the Rift Valley. I take some pictures and then we start our return to camp. Having walked here downhill the return was all uphill and steep, but this time on a track. I do not have to weave my way through dense foliage anymore but is hot and a long ascent. I am relieved to be able to take off my fleece. Mgnana my guide gives me his stick to assist my ascent and it definitely is a help. We walk very slowly and finally make it to the top. I am very thirsty on my return, so time for another G&T before showering and meeting the other guests for pre-dinner drinks.

Everyone is chatty and I meet my guide – Sammy. I am also introduced to Allyson and Benjamin who I am to share a vehicle with tomorrow. They are early 30’s and on their honeymoon but that does not prove an issue. We instantly fall into easy conversation and they prove to be exceptionally good company for the rest of my stay here. We have a fun meal then sit outside star-gazing with a bottle of wine before finally heading off to bed.

When I return to my tent it is toastie as there is a gas heater which has been turned on full and a hot water bottle in my bed. All very civilised and cosy.

All good things must come to an end and so my week on Mafia Island is over and I must pack my bags and leave for the 20 minute drive to the airstrip. My flight is not until 12.45 so I have a leisurely morning chatting and supping beer.

Sand grains will brush off

Salt water will wash away

The tan will fade

But the memories will last forever

I have a fairly uneventful trip to Dar Es Salaam, the flight was on time and is a brief half hour hop. On arrival at Dar, I collect my bag, put it through the screening machine and head outside to find the Auric Air check-in. A very enterprising taxi driver assures me I am heading the wrong way and need the International Terminal. I am pretty sure I am in the right place and can save myself grief by not taking a taxi to a destination that I do not need to be in! I double check with a policeman and he points me to the check-in – a 10 yard walk. This is a fortunately short distance as it is hot and my bag is heavy and has no wheels.

I now have a 3 hour wait for my flight to Arusha which I use wisely uploading and editing photos. Time passes fairly quickly and I board my next 12 seater plane for the 1hr 45 minutes flight to Arusha. I have a difficult first half of the flight as my teeth start hurting. I take some painkillers which finally kick in after 20 minutes or so. In hindsight I think it was not my teeth but pressure in my sinuses triggering nerves. Still the good news is I seem fine now.

I am whisked out of Arusha airport in about 5 seconds flat. Fastest transfer to a vehicle ever! The drive through Arusha is interesting as it is market day but this also means it is very busy so it takes an hour to reach my hotel for the night. I am staying at a lodge called Rivertrees. It is a great overnight stop off. It has a super ambience, lovely garden location and exceptionally warm and friendly staff. I stayed here with my daughter Rachel in September and it does not disappoint.

I had dinner with a Canadian lady who is also travelling on her own. We shared some interesting conversation and I am now rushing to post today’s thoughts as I am up at 05.00 tomorrow and am not sure whether I shall have WiFi now for a while.

My apologies for no photos – just no time today….

The food here is variable but on the whole pretty good. No choice but lots of variety and no meals have been repeated. Every so often we have an astoundingly good meal and last night was a case in point. Thai fish soup (spicy but not too, lots of subtle flavours), grilled lobster and calamari – so fresh and perfectly cooked followed by a totally delicious lemon posset. There was interesting dinner conversation and I slept well. Probably my best night – maybe as it was a little cooler.

The view was that the weather would not be good today and that whale shark spotting would not be possible. I keep my options open and wait to see what the weather is like at breakfast

I therefore eat breakfast and head to the bar. No-one is doing anything this morning. So we compare photos and holiday experiences. Hans and Nicole from Holland are very experienced divers and have done a number of live aboard diving holidays around the world. They have given me lots of ideas and it sounds like a great way to dive, particularly if you are a solo traveller.

I have not finished this holiday yet and am already planning my next trip! It is 11.00 and the weather is improving. I have ordered a beer and am heading down to the pool shortly as it is getting quite hot again.

After a lovely refreshing swim I take a stroll along the beach to the eco hotel next door – Pole Pole which is meant to be very high end.

All very pristine but the rooms are set amongst quite dense vegetation and it seems quite dark and gloomy. Glad I opted for Kinasi Lodge. I take a few photos of the mangroves and some tiny fiddler crabs, then head up for lunch.

Everyone else is diving this afternoon. I am heading across the bay to see Chole Island. We set off in the multi-purpose dive/snorkel/tour boat. I am the only person on the trip – VIP treatment again.

Chole Island was settled by the Arabs in the 15th century. It was on an important trading route. We stroll up from the beach past a small cafe and head for the Customs House, jail and slave market. The Customs House is a very large building but it looks to me as though very little of the original structure remains. Most of the walls look newly repaired. Next we visit the jail. The roof is long gone but it is still dark and forboding inside. I would not have wanted to be locked up here.

The site of the slave market is close to the shore so it was conveniently placed for merchants. Terribly dark times and I am pleased to leave this area and move on to more positive experiences.

We first visit the primary school. There is a large grassy central area and the children are playing football. The buildings in front of me are living accommodation for the teachers and the classrooms are to my right.

We stroll on and behind the school is a small plot growing sweet potatoes and another plot growing cassava.

As we stroll towards the main village we pass assorted fruit trees; banana, mango, orange, baobab, coconut. The vegetation is lush and aloe plants are growing everywhere. Chickens roam amongst the foliage and cows and goats are tethered alongside the homes. Houses are made from stones and mud on a wooden frame. Not dissimilar to wattle and daub.

I am impressed at how clean everywhere is. There is no rubbish to be seen, washing hangs on lines and women are sweeping there courtyards. Apparently the government has introduced a law that people must burn their rubbish. If they do not they receive a fine.

As we approach the centre of the village we stop at a well.

There are two steps up to it and it is probably 6ft wide at the top and very deep. I try to see the water at the bottom but leaning over is making me feel giddy. I hold my camera over the edge and take a picture. If you fell in I do not think you would survive. As the top is completely open, I am sure many children must have lost there lives here over the years. This was the only source of water for the island until 3 years ago when a pipeline was built across the bay to Mafia. There are now 2 freshwater taps in the village but they are locked much of the time and can only be used at certain hours.

There is no electricity on the Chole. The general store has a solar panel and is full of mobile phones charging. The store owner is very enterprising and people must pay for this facility.

We stroll on – two ladies are sitting outside their home with manual sewing machines. They are embroidering squares of cloth and their children are beautifully dressed in brightly coloured fabrics.

I hear squeaking above me. I see there is a huge tree in front of me and it is full of fruit bats. They are large and occasionally take flight and fly around our heads. I wish I had a tripod to rest my camera on – I doubt that any of my shots will be particularly great.

As we move on I see seaweed laid out to dry in the sun and this would be what I saw being harvested yesterday.

We head down to the shore where a wooden boat is being repaired. Personally I should have thought it was past renovation. Pretty well all the ribs have been replaced.

There is a new dhow being built in a shed. If the materials are available it takes 4 men about 4 months to build a dhow. Everything is done by hand, there are no machines. It must be very hard work in this heat and I am impressed that such a large vessel can be built so quickly.

We finish by seeing the hospital. I cannot believe that this is a working hospital. It is so very basic with a few solar panels pitched precariously on one of the shed roofs. They only deal with minor illnesses here or malaria. For anything serious people will travel to Mafia though I cannot believe the facilities there are much better.

There is so much we take for granted in the west. Travel changes your perspective for sure.

We sit and chat before dinner, re-arrange the dining tables so we are closer together and have an enjoyable evening. Dinner is tasty with fresh prawn cocktail and a sweet and sour stir fry.

I woke in the middle of the night for two reasons. Firstly the wind was whistling through the louvre doors and torrential rain was beating down outside and my sinuses were completely blocked. This I think accounts for my ear problems yesterday. I had thought the cold had gone but maybe just being in such an ideal environment masked the symptoms. As today has progressed I feel better and have eaten loads – the first time all week so perhaps I was a little under the weather.

Today I have arranged snorkelling and this time we need to catch the low tide so are leaving at 08.40. The tide is a long way out and all the boats are on dry land

We have a 10 minute walk through the mangroves to reach the next beach which has navigable water.

The beach was very busy with all the boats setting off

As we headed across the bay I questioned my decision to go snorkelling. The skies were grey and threatening more rain. It did not feel that warm and visibility would probably be dreadful.

After 30 minutes we arrived at our first site – Coral Garden. It appeared to be in the middle of the ocean and a long way from land of any description. I think if you were not a confident swimmer/snorkeller you would be in panic mode. I had dived the other end of this reef a couple of days ago so was sure it would be OK. We jumped in. The water felt cold as I was not wearing a wetsuit although my guide was. One rule for staff and another one for guests! Initially I had goose bumps but there was a moderate current so the exercise soon warmed me up.

I shall also make sure to have a massage. There is a Thai spa here and the lady that runs it is lovely. I am feeling quite stiff after so much jumping in and out of boats and also feel I have tweaked my shoulders trying to get in and out of my wetsuit. Some TLC before travel on Wednesday would seem wise. In any case it would just be nice to be pampered😀.

Off to bed now and have managed to find an armchair I can sit in that has WiFi. Hoorah!!