Sep 24 Crossings and More!

We leave camp very early so that we stand a chance of seeing yesterday’s large herds crossing back over the Mara. Qamara is certain this will happen this morning as the herds were very large last night. It is dark as we drive off and we see the most beautiful sunrise.

We drove fast and reached Crossing No 4 where Qamara thought the action would take place. We came across a kill very close to the crossing point. There were lots of hyenas, vultures and jackals. The light was perfect and we started taking lots of shots whilst waiting for the action to commence. We did not need to wait long – literally 5 minutes. Qamara said hold on tight and we raced down to the river. The crossing was huge and we were surrounded by wildebeest running past us and hurling themselves into the water. The noise, dust, vibration. Just impossible to explain. A truly awesome and humbling experience. We were so close that my long lens was not fit for purpose. I ended up videoing with my phone and just taking it in with my eyes.

One mother zebra makes it across but her baby is left behind. She swims back across the river calling all the time.

The crossing went on for a good half an hour and we sat spellbound. Eventually it went quiet and we returned to the kill and hyenas.

We stayed with the hyenas for a while and then parked away from the river to await the next crossing. It is fair to say that I am not feeling great this morning. Partly due to the cough which seems to have returned, along with a headache and hangover – thanks to last night’s festivities. I have a doze and Jane helpfully photographs me. Thanks Jane.

I am awakened by Qamara starting the engine. There is another crossing taking place at California – close to where we are. This was a smaller crossing but North to South so coming towards us . The light was perfect and the photos are really good. The wildebeest are coming up the bank inches from us.

When the California Crossing finished we headed uphill for breakfast and parked up with a clear view of the river in case another crossing happened. Breakfast was delicious. Egg and sweet tomato wraps with sausage and bacon, fruit and chocolate donuts. I had an issue with the donut, which I was thoroughly enjoying, but we were being plagued by flies. Not surprising as there were a lot of wildebeest and they produce a lot of poo. I went to flick a fly away, caught my hat and flung my donut into the surrounding bushes. Never mind. I was getting fairly full in any case – but it was quite funny.

We pack away our breakfast and then sit and wait, hoping for another crossing. We are so lucky. Another crossing does indeed present itself at No 4 again. It is huge and the light is better. I have also had the good sense to swap lenses on my camera, as I realise just how close we will be to the action and the big zoom is too much. I have recorded some stunning video but for now you shall have to make do with the photo. This final crossing lasts ages. The herd keeps changing the crossing point. At any one time there are 3 or 4 crossings occurring. The noise, dust, smell is indescribable. This absolutely is one of the most wondrous things you can ever experience. Crocodiles are swimming fast towards the wildebeest. Will there be a successful assault?

There is so much to look at and it is certainly wise to stop looking through the camera and just absorb it in your mind’s eye. This morning will live with me forever. We are two very happy ladies.

We slowly make our way back to camp and I am delighted to spot a serval in the long grass. We follow it to a bush where it hides in the shade.

Today I actually have time for a shower and hairwash. Hoorah! I am eager to write up yesterday’s blog. Falling behind is not good, but I have had a lot of trouble loading photos. I made a bit of a breakthrough last night when it occurred to me to reduce the file size. No further issues and it is much quicker to now process everything.

Clouds build and as we leave our room for the afternoon drive the heavens open. We catch a brief glimpse of a lion in the rocks close to camp. I am also pretty sure that I saw a cheetah in the long grass but we are unable to find it. We slowly drive down the track and finally arrive at the spot where we last saw the leopard. We see a lioness in the distance and then sleeping on the rocks – a beautiful male leopard. Apparently this is the one year old son of the mother we saw two nights ago.

He starts hunting in the rocks and looks just like a domestic cat playing with a ball of string. To our surprise he suddenly pulls out a leopard tortoise, which he cannot work out how to break in to.