This morning we are going to meet Roberto Salas who was personal photographer to Fidel Castro and we believe he will have some interesting anecdotes to relate from his long association with both Fidel and Che.
We walk out of the hotel at 09.30 and look around for our transport. We look in disbelief and amusement at today’s taxis. They must be two of the oldest vehicles in Havana; a blue sedan with broken windows, a scant amount of leather covering the horsehair and springs on the seats, holes through the rust on the floor to the street and little in the way of suspension. No-one rushed to clamber into this gem but the alternative looked little better. Granted it looked slightly more roadworthy, but it was in effect a converted 1940’s pig van with bench seats along the walls and a half flap at the rear for animals (or in this case passengers) to clamber through.
We park on a leafy street. Roberto greets us warmly and directs us through to his studio. Matt has advised us that Roberto is not always very accommodating, but he seems warm and friendly this morning and it bodes well. He will be 82 next week on 17 November and started his long and prestigious career when he was just a teenager. All of the iconic shots of Cuba, Fidel and Che will have been taken by him or his father.
Roberto is very chatty and tells us all about his career and how he started out as a boy carrying the camera gear for his father, Osvaldo. He also includes interesting anecdotes that give an insight into Fidel’s character. He tells us about the time that Fidel wanted some copies made of some photos his father had taken.
It was 1955. Osvaldo agreed to make the copies but said he would need money for the paper and that the cost would be $10 and Fidel agreed. Roberto was given the prints to take to Fidel. When he entered the house there was a pile of money on the kitchen table and men were sitting around the table counting it. He gave the prints to Fidel who said ‘They are marvellous. Wonderful. Thank your father so much”
Roberto said “Yes but my father said that you owe him $10 for the paper.” Fidel patted his pockets held out his hands openly and said I don’t have $10. Roberto said “What do you mean you don’t have $10? Look at all that money on the table. Of course you have $10.”
Roberto said this is the first time he ever heard a lecture from Fidel. It went along the lines of “That money is sacred. That money belongs to the cause. I cannot touch that money. It is for the revolution. Tell your father when the revolution is over I’ll pay him back.”
When Roberto went back to his father and told him the story his father was furious with him of course.
Now we go forward to 1961. A soldier came over to Fidel and asked him for a job. Fidel said “Yes I will give you a job.” The soldier said “Thank you but can you give me an advance on my pay? I can’t last until the end of the month with no money.” Again Fidel patted his pockets and said “I don’t have any money. Can anybody lend me some money to advance to the soldier?” Roberto put his hand in his pocket at which stage Fidel put his hand on his wrist and said “No, not you Roberto. I still owe you $10.”
Roberto said how amazing to remember that, when you consider the number of things that had happened in the intervening period. Did he ever pay the $10 back? I don’t think so but the good thing is that he did remember that he owed it!
We had the opportunity to buy prints which I did. I felt that this was a once in a lifetime opportunity to buy something unique. We then swapped vehicles and I was treated to the falling apart blue car as we drove into centra Havana to photograph classic cars in three very different locations. Waves were breaking impressively over the harbour wall.
Our first location is the taxi rank in the tourist centre of Havana. It proved to be quite difficult to take unusual shots. People were thronging around and taxis moving every time you thought you had the shot nailed. It turns out other photographers were also a major nuisance – often from our group! I’m not mentioning names but there were definitely some in the group who liked to hog the space or walk blithely into shot as the shutter was released.
I was pretty unsuccessful at the next location too, which was a bustling square but I did manage one of my favourite shots of the holiday. I love how the green on the walls matches exactly the green on the car. A simple shot but it has impact.
Whilst walking to our third location I was horrified to see that someone was living in this totally derelict building, which is immediately opposite the pristine Capitol building. A city of contrasts….
Our final location is where the locals shop. It is busy, tatty and vibrant. There is an energy and it would be easy to spend all day here. The photo opportunities are endless. Such a marvellous place for people watching. What is also remarkable is despite the faded facades, shabbiness and graffiti there is very little litter.
We stop in a tiny bistro for lunch which is surprisingly good and then make our way to a cigar factory. There we watch cigars being made and are given coffee, rum and a cigar to try out. The walls are covered with football scarves and currency from around the world and cigar boxes are suspended from the ceiling.
Our final brief for the day is visual impact. I set off with renewed energy and focus and am pleased with what I manage to produce. I have definitely made progress. The two shots below were taken an hour apart. I thought having the moped in view would have more visual impact but I actually prefer the earlier shot. It is cleaner and less busy.
I love this piece of graffiti and wish someone had walked past the doorway with an ice-cream. That would have made the shot just perfect.
However my favourite photo for this assignment is the one below.
It has been a long day and we have walked miles around the streets of Havana. The day is not yet over as we shall have another long walk to tonight’s restaurant. As it turns out the walk is even longer than it should have been due to some dubious map reading; adding a good mile to our journey. Nobody has high expectations for the meal, but it turns out that tonight’s venue is as good as last night’s was bad. The restaurant is set within a large family home and apparently many of the relatives are fishermen so the seafood is fresh and of excellent quality. We have a truly amazing meal for a very reasonable price.
We leave the restaurant, walk across the beautiful Plaza de San Francisco de Asis and grab some very welcome taxis back to the hotel. I sleep very soundly indeed.
