My Wild Travels

Photography and Travel Blog

San Francisco

We have a long queue at San Francisco airport to collect the hire car. A rush of blood to the head makes us change our sensible SUV for a new white convertible mustang.

Not practical but so much fun!! We cross the Oakland Bay Bridge and arrive at our friends in Oakland at 15.35

It is a lovely sunny afternoon although there is a chilly wind. We drink rosé, have a light supper and try to ignore the eight hour time difference. We also admire the view from the terrace.

The following day is spent exploring San Francisco. We visit Pier 39, which is far too touristy for our liking. Photos below are the more interesting bits.

There are no sea lions but lots of people and commercialised retail. It is not to our taste – but it does have restrooms and a great view of Alcatraz.

The car park is pretty expensive at $10 per hour, but it is convenient for the cable car. We have a long wait before we can board, but there is lots to photograph.

San Francisco really does have very steep hills and I enjoy the whole experience. There are very iconic views.

We drive over the Golden Gate Bridge and make our way to Sausalito for a late lunch. The journey is interesting and on the whole scenic.

We make a complete circuit of the bay and return over Richmond Bridge. There is heavy traffic with some jams and we make some wrong exits from the freeway. The signage is less than helpful! We are happy to chill on the deck with our hosts and be fed and watered with great food and some excellent wine from their vineyard.

After a good night’s sleep we are given a day off from driving. Our friends take us to Sonoma. It is a historic and pretty small town.

The Bear Flag was raised here in 1846 to signify the declaration of freedom of California from Mexican rule.

We visit the barracks and admire the historic houses.

We then visit Bartholomew Vineyard for a walk, picnic and wine-tasting.

We end the day with a tour of Chris and Viv’s little vineyard, which they set up from scratch 10 years ago with friends, building the terracing and planting new vines. In their first year of production they won a California State Fair gold medal. Impressive! We were lucky enough to sample an extensive selection of their wines and they were all really good.

We say a fond farewell to our friends and head south.

Homeward Bound

Luxury! No need to rush out of bed this morning. Hotel check-out is 12.00 and our flight is not until 19.50. Somewhat annoying then that I am wide awake at 03.15 whilst Jane sleeps blissfully. I do eventually manage to doze off again but at 06.15 I am up, showering and making the most of Wi-Fi and trying to catch-up on the blog.

There is a long promenade outside the hotel so we take a stroll after breakfast. It is overcast but extremely humid and hot. We walk as far as we can in both directions – probably 1km. That is enough – we are then are happy to take refuge in the cool of the hotel lobby.

We are picked up from the hotel at 16.00 and whisked through check-in quickly but then there is a huge queue to clear customs and security. An hour later we make it to the VIP lounge. I really want a G&T but the generosity of Iberia only permits customers to have wine or beer. A glass of chardonnay will have to suffice. We are just unwinding and relaxing when I hear an indistinct message on the tannoy but it is clearly my and Jane’s names. We put the wine down, pack everything up and are told to go to Gate 7 where someone says there is a problem with our luggage. We must follow them please. My heart misses a beat. This does not feel comfortable at all, particularly after my recent Air France experience. There are a few other people too, which is of some comfort I think. We are taken to a white door with “Police. Narcotics Control” written on it. SH*T!! We are sure this is a random check…but what if it isn’t? There are a load of thought processes going on…..

I see my case and collect it, then stand in line for inspection. I decide to be VERY personable. “Ola” I say to the policeman and smile sweetly. He makes a minimal check of my bag. Asks me if the blue bottles are shampoo and lets me go. Phew!! Jane has an equally quick experience. Some people’s gear is really being pulled apart. The man next to me is getting very aggressive and I think he may be there a while and even miss his flight. This is not the time to make a stand. Compliance is the assuredly the way forward.

We make it back to the VIP lounge and down another glass of much needed wine.

The flight is on time and without further hitch apart from the extreme turbulence for the first hour, meaning that even the crew could not leave their seats. The food on Iberia is yet again truly terrible as is the service. We are in business but that does not make any difference to the quality of the experience. I decide that the best course of action is to sleep and dream about my most amazing adventures in Ecuador. What an absolutely stunning country and awesome holiday!

Adios Galapagos

Another early start so we can squeeze in one more excursion before we return home. At 06.00 we board the pangas for an hour’s trip around the mangroves on Santa Cruz in the hope of seeing baby sharks and rays.

We are not disappointed. We see both, as well as mosquitos and biting horseflies. Time to copiously coat ourselves with repellant which does appear to work.

It is a perfect morning, clear blue skies and windless so the water is glasslike.

Solaris then ups anchor and heads the short distance across the straits to Baltra, whilst we eat breakfast. Then it is final farewells and our last trip in the pangas. Our departure is delayed slightly as there is a large oil tanker coming in to dock. Fabian tells me it docks every three weeks and supplies all the oil to the islands.

There is a longish queue to check in at the airport. There is no shortcut. Check-in in advance is not an option. An hour later we have cleared customs. There are lots of little shops and I find myself buying some last minute gifts – and some for me…. We wait in the shade of the solar panel-roofed walkway before boarding our flight.

The flight to Guayaquil is on time and smooth. I am shocked to see significant flooding as we come in to land. It is only three weeks since Guayaquil suffered a 6.3 earthquake and now there is flooding as far as I can see. True hardship for the local people whose homes are isolated and surrounded by flood water.

At Guayaquil the domestic arrivals is cordoned off so we have no option but to go through passport control. The customs officer seems confused and then directs me back to domestic arrivals which has now been opened. That was an unnecessary walk and half hour of my life! Guayaquil airport is much more sophisticated than I had imagined.

We are met and taken to our hotel – The Wyndham, which is on the riverbank and we have a great view from our room. We pass a strange statue of a capuchin monkey on our way there.

I do not know what I expected Guayaquil to be like. It is certainly nothing like Quito in climate or structurally. It is hot, humid, low lying and booming. There is huge wealth here which I guess is largely generated from the oil industry, but there is poverty too. It is just not so overt.

We have been given a double room instead of a twin, but the hotel are very accommodating and install another single bed in our room. Jane and I are good friends but the one bed seems a bit too cosy! The views over the city are extensive.

We have a relaxed afternoon and enjoy the simple pleasure of a burger and chips in the restaurant. The boat food was good, but sometimes you just need comfort carbs!

Sullivan Bay and Bartolome

We make a dry landing at Sullivan Bay, Santiago Island and are going to walk on the lava flow there. The eruption took place 200 years ago and is of a similar structure to the Hawaiian eruptions called pahoehoe. The lava flows slowly and forms smooth humps. The lava has set in all sorts of weird and wonderful shapes.

The new lava field is black, in stark contrast to the ancient lava – maybe 2 million years old –  which it has flowed over, which is red and has weathered into rocks, shale and sand.

It is a totally alien landscape and we feel as though we are walking on another planet. Scrubby plants cling to life on the old lava flow and there are very occasional small plants just beginning to grow on the new lava field.

A crab seems out of place in this hostile terrain.

A fly catcher follows us as we walk. It is hoping to catch any insect that may land on us and as a result comes very close to us indeed.

The sky is cloudless and the sun beats down. It is searingly hot – probably well over 40C. We drink loads of water. I have taken two bottles and I need them. We are very relieved when 2 hours later we finally arrive at the beach.

I cannot take my shorts off fast enough and run into the sea. It is absolute bliss to swim in the cooling water. We have brought snorkel gear. The marine life is good. I see a sea lion, two turtles and lots of reef fish. Some people spot a couple of penguins but I was too busy looking at a large ray.

In the afternoon we snorkel at Bartolome.

This time we all see the penguins. There are only three but we feel lucky to have found them and no-one is in a hurry to get back in the boats.

The current was quite strong in places so we have had a good deal of exercise today. However there is more to come. We shall finish the day with a walk up to the top of Bartolome some 114 metres high involving 370 steps.

This in 40C heat with no shade and high humidity is a big ask but we all make it.

The older ones amongst us take more rests than the youngsters. I am so hot when I reach the top that I pour the remaining contents of my water bottle over my head and down the front and back of my shirt. Bliss!!

Back on board I down an ice cold beer, shower then return for a margarita and farewell briefing.

Our guide Fabian, loves snorkelling and has made a short video of our snorkelling trips. It is really good. He has a GoPro and his footage is much better than mine. That will be my next Xmas present sorted!

Floreana

I slept really well last night and I do not wake until the alarm goes off at 06.15. It is a beautiful day. Clear blue sky and green hills rising out of an azure sea, which is flat calm. The sun has already made the stainless steel handrails too hot to touch. We make a wet landing on the golden tan sand of Cormorant Point on Floreana.

I take lots of views on my phone. It is truly gorgeous here. The sand sparkles because it contains grains of peridot and shells and corals that have washed up on the beach have been collected into a little treasure trove.

Blue-footed boobies nest behind the beach and we also spot a well-camouflaged striated heron.

We set off on the trail …..

….and come to a large brackish lake….

….and are delighted to see a large number of flamingoes. They are very richly coloured and clearly finding lots of shrimp to eat.

We reluctantly say our farewells to them and continue across the island, drinking copious amounts of water on route. My word it is hot. It is an easy trail but with some inclines and there are great views from the centre of the island.

The vegetation seems lusher here and there are plants that we have not seen elsewhere.

We continue to a spectacular stretch of sand on the leeward shore. The water is crystal clear. I take off my sandals and paddle. The cool of the water is so welcome and I luxuriate in it and feel it gradually lowering my body temperature.

Stingrays patrol the beach and swim past our feet. There are loads of turtles in the sea. This beach is a nesting site. We do not see any turtle hatchlings but I do see some indents where there are nests.

Just half an hour break and then we go snorkelling off Champion Islet. This is a deep water snorkel and the sea life is astonishing. Shoals and shoals of different fish. A boobie torpedoing into the water yards away from me and then…..sea lions. Everywhere. They are playful and I spend pretty much the whole time snorkelling with them. Completely magical.

I am sitting in my cabin writing postcards to post home from Post Office Bay later this afternoon. This is how sailors communicated before post. They left messages in a barrel and crews from any passing boat would pick up the messages to deliver by hand when they reached the mainland. The tradition continues today with tourists writing cards and hoping another tourist lives near the address and will hand deliver it. I have sent three cards. Let’s see how long they take to arrive……

I’ve literally just finished writing when there is a knock on my cabin door. A large pod of dolphins have been sighted. They are a long way off but we can see them jumping and playing.

After lunch we have a boat ride to Baronesa’s Bay. We watch sea lions playing in the water, there are a few blue-footed boobies and we spot two huge blue herons. We drive into the mangroves in the hope of seeing young sharks but actually find three beautiful eagle rays. We cruise round the bay in the panga and then go ashore. We post our cards in the postbox. We also go through all the cards in the box to see if we can hand deliver any.

I spend the rest of the afternoon on the beach – chatting in the water and snorkelling. I see two large turtles, a baby shark swimming along the beach and several puffer fish.

Our latest after dinner activity has been to stand on deck and look for sharks. Tonight there is a spectacular display. The sea bubbles with small fish and periodically flying fish leap across the water. They are fast, but not as fast as the pursuing sea lions. Large Galapagos sharks are also present. They swim more slowly and look like they are hoping to pick up the fallout from the sea lions hunting.

On one occasion a large group of sea lions surround the flying fish which leap across the water in all directions looking very much like a firework display.

Tonight there was a beautiful sunset. The clouds seem to mimic the adjacent hillsides. This was followed by the moon rising and glistening across the calm ocean.

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